Essential Cambodia Travel Guide

Cambodia is rightly an emerging tourist destination. With the spectacular temple complex at Angkor as its main drawcard, the country is a must for the cultural traveller. But apart from majestic Angkor Wat, there is so much to enjoy in the southeast Asian country.

Temple complexes are dotted around the country, often discovered by the occasional tourist. From Preah Vihear in the north to the other Ta Prohm (not the one of Tomb Raider fame), let us guide you through some of the best temples in Cambodia.

The capital Phnom Penh with its wonderful riverfront, contains a secretive buzzing restaurant and bar scene – not to mention affordable boutique hotels. Siem Reap is so much more than a base camp to assault Angkor. There is much to entertain in the kingdom’s towns and cities, most of it hidden from the day-tripper.

Cambodia still retains some of the region’s last vestiges of untouched nature in parts of the Cardamom Mountains

Kep and Kampot have recently found their way on the tourist trail, but what about the country’s second city Battambang with its bamboo trains and artistic heritage, or Kampong Cham and even Kratie with its endangered dolphins. There is so much more to unearth on your Cambodia holidays.

Outside of the cities, Cambodia still retains some of the region’s last vestiges of untouched nature in parts of the Cardamom Mountains, with up-market eco-glamping allowing you to discover the undiscovered in luxury. And off the southern coast near Sihanoukville are islands and beaches that would make di Caprio think the Beach not worth a second look.

A vibrant contemporary art scene, incredibly friendly people and surprising gastronomy add to make the former Khmer kingdom a quite glorious place to visit. Follow us on our guide to Cambodia travel for an experience that will live with you for ever.

Read on for more guidance on Cambodia travel for the Over 40s.

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Cambodia Wildlife, Outdoors and Nature

Cambodia is the perfect spot for nature enthusiasts and avid adventurers who like to hop off the beaten track. Away from the major urban hubs, the country is mostly sweeping countryside, jungle-clad mountains and dense tropical forest. It’s awash with authentic adventures and opportunities to dive into the heart of the wild.

While the country’s collection of endangered flora and fauna is shrinking, thanks to decades of illegal logging and poaching, Cambodia is still home to an abundance of rare and exotic birds, mammals and marine life. The considerable range of conservation efforts taking place is giving many species a new lease of life, while a rising number of eco-tourism projects means guests can experience Cambodia’s wealth of wildlife first-hand.

Phnom Tamao Rescue Centre  is operated by wildlife rescue NGO Wildlife Alliance and is a great day trip from the capital, sitting about 30km away. The organisation works to stamp out Cambodia’s illegal animal trade and wildlife trafficking, and the rescue centre plays an integral role in its mission. Rescued and seized animals are taken to the centre, where they are rehabilitated before being released back into the wild.

It cares for a range of species, such as tigers, deer, leopard cats, elephants and gibbons. Wildlife Alliance runs a day tour, which includes feeding elephants, entering the tiger’s den, spending time with hand-reared baby animals and hanging out with macaques in their enclosure.

Elephant Valley Project offers respite to overworked and abused elephants at its sprawling sanctuary in the heart of the area’s rugged jungle

Another pioneering project from Wildlife Alliance that will tickle the fancy of nature lovers is its wildlife release station in the heart of Koh Kong. Here, sun bears, monkeys, birds and cloud leopards are all a step away from being sent home as they await their release back into the wild. Rangers are on hand to explain each of the animal’s story, with treks through the jungle available. Basic huts provide accommodation.

Birders will be in their element at Sam Veasna Centre. The Siem Reap-based organisation has been running tours to fund its work to protect and preserve the country’s birdlife since 2006. Half-day through to multiple day trips, led by English-speaking guides, showcase Cambodia’s range of birds, from Bengal floricans and giant and white-shouldered ibis, to critically-endangered species of vulture.

For some elephant action on your Cambodia travel, head to Mondulkiri. Elephant Valley Project offers respite to overworked and abused elephants at its sprawling sanctuary in the heart of the area’s rugged jungle. Visitors can sign up to a range of trips, from a full-day through to five days. These take in treks to watch elephants bathing in rivers or stomping through the trees and learning about the indigenous Bunong tribes that call Mondulkiri home.

The central province of Kratie is home to a small collection of endangered Irrawaddy dolphins

The central province of Kratie is home to a small collection of endangered Irrawaddy dolphins. Inhabiting a 118-mile stretch of the Mekong River between Cambodia and Laos, the dolphins are close to extinction, with an estimated 78 to 91 remaining – and some of them like to hang out in a spot of water just a short boat ride from Kratie.

It’s easy to organise a trip yourself – get a tuk tuk to the boat docks at Kampi, about 11km from the town of Kratie, and haggle the price of a boat to about US$10 – but a wonderful way to get a snapshot into authentic rural local life is to sign up to one of CRDT’s (Cambodia Rural Discovery Tours) offerings.

It works with underprivileged communities across the province to offer a range of homestays, eco-adventures and local experiences that steer well and truly away from Cambodia’s tourist hotspots. These include trips to see the dolphins and a breeding programme that is bringing the giant Cantor’s softshell turtle back from the brink of extinction.

If you prefer to inject a bit of glamour into your wilderness experience, then check-in to Cardamom Tented Camp. The luxury glamping resort in the heart of the Cardamom jungle sees a handful of safari tents, complete with a king size bed, Western-style toilet, and steaming hot power shower, dotted in a natural plain. All profits are ploughed into funding rangers who protect the jungle from loggers and poachers. Guests can accompany them on their patrols, kayak, trek, or relax on the sundeck.

For a taste of the absolute high-life, Shinta Mani Wild – The Bensley Collection  opened in December, with 15 exclusive tents scattered along a 1.5km stretch of river and waterfalls. Located in an unprotected wildlife corridor connecting Bokor and Kirirom national parks, the resort offers curated adventures into the surrounding jungle.

Cambodia Food

Cambodians love to graze, which means snacks are readily at hand. Street food is common across the country, with vendors pushing carts selling everything from sun-baked clams and num kachay (chive cakes), to chet chien (deep-fried bananas) and num banh chok (Khmer noodles).

The aroma of local herbs and spices float from local markets, and street-side stalls are set up on pavements at breakfast, lunch and dinner time, when Cambodians gather to eat at mobile metal tables and miniature plastic chairs.

Key ingredients include galangal, garlic, lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves and turmeric

Cambodian food may not sit up there globally with cuisine from neighbouring Thailand and Vietnam, but it’s slowly earning its place. Unlike its neighbours, where dishes tend to pack a real punch, Cambodian food is subtler with its spices.

Key ingredients include galangal, garlic, lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves and turmeric. These are commonly ground into a paste, called kroeung, and used as a base for cooking. Spice is usually added with dipping sauces featuring chopped chilli and garlic with fish or soy sauce, or black pepper (preferably Kampot pepper) with squeezed fresh lime.

Prahok also features heavily in Cambodian dishes. The crushed, salted and fermented fish paste is mainly used to season dishes but can also be eaten as a main course – be warned, this is not to be taken lightly. Having earned itself the nickname of Cambodia cheese, prahok is famous for its distinct taste and pungent smell.

Rice forms a staple in local diets. Cambodia is primarily a patchwork quilt of paddies and even the Khmer phrase for eating – “nyam bai” – literally translates as “eat rice”. Rice in some form features in every meal, from the popular breakfast dish of bobor (rice porridge) and kuy teav (rice-noodle soup), to nom banh chok, made from thin rice noodles.

Recent years have seen Cambodian cuisine given a refreshing contemporary twist

A contemporary form of Cambodian cuisine is also starting to rise from kitchens in restaurants in the urban hubs of Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Battambang, Kampot and Kep. Between 1975 and 1979, an estimated quarter of the population perished under the Khmer Rouge. Passed down orally through generations, many Khmer traditions, including recipes, were almost lost.

Recent years have seen Cambodian cuisine given a refreshing contemporary twist. The revival has been led by Cambodian master chef Luu Meng, and his creative interpretations can be tasted at Malis restaurants in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. Romdeng is a social enterprise led by NGO Friends International and puts a modern spin on classical Cambodian dishes – give the deep-fried tarantulas served with pepper and lime sauce a try, if you dare. Award-winning Cuisine Wat Damnak in Siem Reap fuses the finest flavours of France with Cambodia. While The Fishmarket Kampot serves up plates that are as easy on the eye as they are on the stomach, coupled with idyllic views of Kampot River.

Again, Cambodia’s cuisine can be explored through several tasty tours. Siem Reap Food Tours and its sister venture Phnom Penh Food Tours introduce guests to market life, back street cooking and a wide variety of street food. Kek Soon takes guests to her favourite local food spots in her hometown of Kampot with her culinary and culture tours. And Frizz restaurant’s cooking classes teach guests how to cook classic dishes, such as spring rolls, fish amok and mango and sticky rice.

Phnom Penh: Cambodia’s Capital

The Cambodian capital is a city undergoing rapid change. The sound of construction clatters through the air almost 24/7 as swathes of old Phnom Penh are razed to pave the way for a new chapter of modern shopping malls, high-rise condos, hotels and office blocks.

Sitting as Cambodia’s economic hub, Phnom Penh is traditionally seen as the gateway to Cambodia travel, with most visitors landing at the international airport and spending a couple of days exploring guidebook highlights before heading to Siem Reap or the coast. However, Phnom Penh is a city worth spending a bit of time in to scratch beneath the surface.

The mounting collection of intimate independent galleries that dot the capital offer a window into contemporary Cambodia

Away from the main tourist attractions of Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21), The Killing Fields (Choeung Ek Genocidal Centre), the National Museum and Royal Palace, there’s plenty more reasons to extend a stay.

The mounting collection of intimate independent galleries that dot the capital offer a window into contemporary Cambodia. Java Creative Café in Toul Tom Poung and Sa Sa Bassac showcase work from local contemporary artists. DinArt gallery features Teang Borin’s stunning mystical interpretations of apsara dancers, while Neverland Artspace – also home to n o w h e r e art studio – houses exhibitions from across the region.

Phnom Penh is a foodies’ delight, with street food readily available thanks to the stacks of mobile street carts and streetside vendors dishing out local delicacies. If fear over a sensitive stomach strikes, notable restaurants serving Cambodian cuisine include upmarket Malis. Sovanna 1 and Sovanna 2 pill out with locals and is famous for its barbecue, and Eleven One Kitchen serves affordable tourist-friendly local dishes.

Markets sit at the heart of local life, and there are plenty of options

Nightlife is ripe in Phnom Penh, and today it’s all about the vast network of hidden backstreets, alleys and lanes. Bassac Lane, tucked away off Street 308, is home to a quirky collection of themed bars and restaurants. TTP Lane, off Street 155, houses a smattering of intimate drinking spots, diners and boutiques. Dainty cafés, urban bars and snug eateries dot Street 240 ½, and cute diners, fashion stores and hidden speakeasy BattBong (look for the coke machine) can be found on the lane off Street 51, opposite Street 288.

For those tight on time, innovative tours are cropping up. ZIN Adventures – a social enterprise co-founded by five Cambodian-American deportees and two local advisors – run a 90-minute walking tour that introduces visitors to some of the secret stories buried in the Old European Quarter. The city’s shrinking architectural history is explored with Khmer Architecture Tours, led by local architects, artists and architect students. Sample the delights of street food with Phnom Penh Food Tours, or jump on the back of a motorbike with MotogirlTour, founded by a trio of young female Cambodians.

Markets sit at the heart of local life, and there are plenty of options. Phsar Thmei (Central Market) and Phsar Toul Tom Poung (Russian Market) are geared towards the tourist crowds and have undergone a makeover in recent years, tarting them up and making them easier to navigate. Barter for prices at the stalls spilling over with clothes, paintings, electrical goods household items, souvenirs and everything in between. For a more local experience, brave chaotic Orussey Market, Phsar Chas (Old Market) or Boeung Keng Kang Market.

Siem Reap: Gateway to Angkor Wat

Home to iconic Angkor Wat, Siem Reap is the jewel in Cambodia’s crown. The city is often shrugged off as just another tourist town. This is a common injustice because Siem Reap is home to some of Cambodia’s finest countryside, sprawling national parks, refreshing waterfalls; a province replete with opportunities to experience local life.

In 2018, Angkor Archaeological Park welcomed almost 2.6 million international visitors, generating more than US$100 million in revenue. Of course, no Cambodia travel adventure is complete without a stop-off at the 400sq km site that is home to hundreds of ancient temples and religious structures.

One-, three- and seven-day passes (US$37, US$62 and US$72) are available, with most visitors opting for one day and hitting the well-trodden triangle that takes in sunrise at 12^th century Angkor Empire capital, Angkor Wat, Bayon temple and its giant smiling faces and root-riddled Ta Prohm, famous for featuring in the 2001 Hollywood hit Tomb Raider: Lost Temple.

As visitor numbers continue to rise, don’t expect to have any of these sites to yourself. The further away from Angkor Wat, the quieter the temples are, so investing in a three-day ticket, which can be used across a week, is worth it.

Away from the temples, Siem Reap’s pristine countryside and sprinkling of artisan and rural communities are becoming more accessible

Thirty-five kilometres from Siem Reap, the 10th-century temple of Banteay Srei with its intricately-carved buildings made from dusty pink sandstone, looks like it’s been plucked straight out of a fairy tale. Banteay Kdei dates back to the mid-12^th to early-13^th centuries. While 10^th-century Prasat Kravan boasts an impressive facade of red-brick symmetrical towers, and Ta Som is a quieter alternative to Ta Prohm.

Away from the temples, Siem Reap’s pristine countryside and sprinkling of artisan and rural communities are becoming more accessible. In September, German development organisation GIZ launched its Beyond the Temples campaign to encourage visitors to extend their Cambodia travel trip and sample what else Siem Reap has to offer. It worked with communities throughout the province’s 12 districts to create itineraries that take in culture, nature, agritourism, food and traditional handicrafts.

After dusk, notorious Pub Street springs to life with bucket-swigging backpackers spilling onto the streets until dawn

Suggested activities include visiting Kulen National Park, home to sacred Phnom Kulen, Kbal Spean (River of a Thousand Lingas), ancient temples, gushing waterfalls for swimming and dense jungle, boat trips to the floating village of Kampong Phluk, a jaunt into the jungle to Chang Kran Roy Community Forest and visiting weaving communities at the Institute of Khmer Traditional Textiles.

In the city of Siem Reap itself, restaurants and boutiques line the riverside, with the heart of the action centred around the Old Market and Pub Street areas. After dusk, notorious Pub Street springs to life with bucket-swigging backpackers spilling onto the streets until dawn. Cocktail bars, dive bars, wine bars, pizza joints, curry houses and everything in between can be found in the at-times disorientating network of lanes that sit off Pub Street. Miss Wong is a stalwart on the Siem Reap scene and an absolute must for its cocktails.

Kandal Village is where it’s all happening these days, a cool enclave made up of a small block of streets south of the Old French Quarter. The cute neighbourhood is Siem Reap’s hipster hub and home to an eclectic mix of galleries, diners, coffee shops, spas, ethical fashion houses and innovative homeware stores.

Angkor Wat Away(ish) from the Crowds

Visiting Angkor Wat armed with a plan can pay off as an increasing number of visitors explore the world’s largest religious site. Here are our top tips on how to make the most out of a visit to Angkor Archaeological Park on your Cambodia travel.

As mentioned previously, one-, three- and seven-day passes are available and can be bought at the new ticket office. Here, you will receive a photographed pass – they take a headshot when you pay the fee. You will be required to show this at each temple so keep it handy and don’t lose it. Note, the office opens at 5am, by which time the sunrise queues have already started to snake out of the building.

There are several ways to tour Angkor, with tuk tuk being the most popular. And there is no shortage of drivers waiting to ferry visitors around the site, with tuk tuks touting for your tourist dollar from the moment you step foot in Siem Reap. A tuk tuk for the day costs about US$20-25, depending on your bartering skills, with a further $5 for the evening. Alternatively, guesthouses and hotels can organise your trip, and most will pack you a breakfast if you’re heading there for sunrise.

Navigating Angkor Wat can easily be done alone, but without the help of a knowledgeable guide, the fine details of its history can easily be missed

Private vehicles and taxis can also take guests around the park and can be booked through the many travel agents that dot Siem Reap, or at your hotel. For an environmentally-friendly alternative, electric cars and bicycles now operate in the park. Bicycle is another option, with many shops renting a range of bikes. Several tour operators, such as Grasshopper Adventures, run day-long bike trips through the temples.

Navigating Angkor Wat can easily be done alone, but without the help of a knowledgeable guide, the fine details of its history can easily be missed. This means hiring a guide is a sound investment. These cost about US$30 and can be booked through a tour operator in Siem Reap or at the site itself. Make sure they are registered with the Ministry of Tourism – they will wear the uniform and carry their license. Tips are also appreciated as wages are relatively low.

To lose the masses after sunrise, skip spending the next two hours wondering around Angkor Wat … and head straight to Ta Prohm

There’s no avoiding the crowds at Angkor Wat, Bayon and Ta Prohm these days. However, by slightly shaking up your itinerary, there are ways to escape the masses. Yet, you can’t beat the rush if you want to catch sunrise as the lotus lakes that sit in front of the temple are where the majority head. All wanting to capture that iconic shot of the sun rising behind the spires reflected in the still water.

To lose the masses after sunrise, skip spending the next two hours wondering around Angkor Wat like everyone else and head straight to Ta Prohm. Here, you’ll have about an hour to enjoy the root-riddled temple complex with just a handful of fellow explorers, as opposed to jostling the self-stick wielding crowds that will descend mid-morning. After this, head to Bayon temple, leaving Angkor Wat for last.

Phnom Bakheng is a popular sunset spot, again attracting huge crowds but not on the scale of sunrise. A quieter location is Pre Rup. Quick tip: if you buy a one-day pass after 4.30pm you can use it for sunset that day as well as the whole following day.

Angkorian Temples That Aren’t Angkor Wat

Thousands of ancient temples and religious structures dot Cambodia away from Angkor Wat, and they come without the thronging crowds. If you fancy having a UNESCO World Heritage temple pretty much all to yourself, then include the northern province of Preah Vihear in your Cambodia travel plans.

Prasat Preah Vihear (temple of the sacred mountain) sat at the centre of conflict for decades. Located on the edge of the Cambodian-Thai border, ferocious fighting between the two countries over ownership of the sacred site raged until recent years. In 2015, the destination was deemed safe and taken off many foreign offices’ watch lists.

Dating back to the late 12^th Century, this is another of Jayarvarman VII’s stunning creations

Military presence remains strong today, with soldiers poised to protect the temple if needs be. This also means the site is closed to visitors at sunrise and sunset – a real shame as the top tier of the temple is perched atop a 525-metre cliff in the Dangrek Mountains and offers unparalleled 360-degree sweeping views that would be great for enjoying dawn and dusk. The complex comprises a series of impressive structures, built between the 9th and 12th century by several kings wanting to out-impress their predecessors.

About an hour south of Phnom Penh sits Ta Prohm at Tonle Bati – not to be confused with Angkor’s Tomb Raider Ta Prohm. This intimate Angkorian site contains many impressive features, including pristine carvings, few tourists and stunning views of the adjacent Tonle Bati lake. Dating back to the late 12^th Century, this is another of Jayarvarman VII’s stunning creations. He was the mastermind behind Bayon and Ta Prohm temples and Angkor Thom city at Angkor.

Another really impressive temple that is way off-the-beaten track is Koh Ker. Serving as the capital of the Angkorian empire from 928 to 944, the remote site, which sits about 127km northeast of Siem Reap, boasts 42 religious structures and monuments sprinkled throughout jungle. The main temple is Prasat Krahom, a 50-metre-wide sandstone pyramid that stretches 40 metres to the sky. Visitors can climb to the top and enjoy the delightful views. Again, visitors are unlikely to encounter more than a handful of locals and even fewer foreigners.

Cambodia Beaches, Islands and the Coast

Your Cambodia travel would be incomplete without a trip to the beach. Sadly, the coastal town of Sihanoukville has become a victim of Cambodia’s rapid development. Once a popular destination with tourists seeking some beach action, Sihanoukville has seemingly been handed over to Chinese tourism. The city centre is under construction as more than 80 casinos are being built, signs in Mandarin sit above restaurants, shops and bars, and accommodation rates rapidly rise as land value skyrockets.

Even the quieter beaches of Otres and Otres II have been unable to escape, with huge development in the midst of transforming the area from tranquil getaway to almost mega-city scale. Grand plans claim Sihanoukville is on track to becoming Southeast Asia’s alternative to Macau. Thankfully, Cambodia still has a collection of relatively undeveloped tropical islands, meaning there is still plenty of postcard perfect beach action to be found.

Koh Rong, Cambodia’s largest and most developed island, is where the majority head. Speed boats connect Sihanoukville with Koh Rong, before going on to Koh Rong Sanloem. On Koh Rong, passengers are dropped off at Koh Toch pier. While the island has garnered a reputation as a party spot, we’re certainly not talking the extremes of the raucous full moon parties found on the Thai island of Koh Phangan. However, the stretch of beach next to the pier is where the majority of party-seeking backpackers and travellers head, with no shortage of guesthouses, basic bars and restaurants packing the area.

If you are searching for tranquillity then Lonely Beach fits the bill – the clue’s in the name

While Koh Rong is Cambodia’s most developed island, basic infrastructure is lacking. Electricity is run off generators so many spots switch it off at night, there are no roads running through the island’s jungle-hugged centre, internet is sketchy and getting from one side of the island to the other involves a fisherman’s boat taxi. On a plus side, this means that seeking a quieter spot on Koh Rong is easy – it’s home to 28 beaches in total.

If you are searching for tranquillity then Lonely Beach fits the bill – the clue’s in the name. Located in the north, the palm-fringed beach is home to just one guesthouse and nothing else but nature. Southwestern Coconut Beach boasts powder white sands that contrast with the lapping turquoise waters and is home to a small but steadily growing collection of accommodation. While Long Beach, previously called Sok San Beach, is home to a miles-long stretch of powder-white sand that crunches below the feet. This was where the 32^nd series of reality TV show, Survivor, was filmed. It is home to Sok San Beach Resort, and further along the beach the island’s first five-star resort opened in the form of The Royal Sands Koh Rong.

Koh Rong Sanloem is Koh Rong’s smaller sister and where intrepid travellers attempting to escape Koh Rong’s growing crowds head. Of course, this has led to more development on the island’s shores and a boom in visitors. Island activities include kicking back and doing nothing in a tropical paradise setting, or snorkelling, diving, kayaking and trekking for the more intrepid.

As more visitors head to Koh Rong Sanloem, those seeking true solace are heading to Koh Ta Kiev

M’Pay Bei is a traditional fishing village nestled among the palm trees and tropical forest that cover the island’s northern tip and boasts a handful of simple shacks and guesthouses. To the east is the more exclusive Saracen Bay, with a cluster of eco tents and boutique bungalows on the edge of the pristine beach. The western side is an hour’s trek along jungle paths from the east or by boat. Three stunning beaches await, with Sunset and Lazy beach having accommodation.

As more visitors head to Koh Rong Sanloem, those seeking true solace are heading to Koh Ta Kiev where, apart from a few basic guesthouses and small fishing villages, the island remains idyllically deserted, with limited facilities so don’t expect any pampering, or too much hot water and electricity.

If planning on including the islands in your Cambodia travel plans, then it’s worth noting a few things. There are no ATMs on the islands so bring plenty of cash, although Green Ocean and White House guesthouses and Koh Lanta on Koh Rong’s Koh Touch have Eftpos terminals, which accept most bank cards. It comes with a 10 percent charge and the machines often run out of cash, so only use as a last resort.

Bring plenty of mosquito spray and also be aware that sand flies are rampant on some beaches, and, boy, do they bite.

Emerging Cambodia Travel Destinations

As the country’s infrastructure drastically improves and investment into outlying areas starts to increase, lesser-known areas of the country are opening up to the outside world.

Once reserved for the country’s rich and famous, the quaint seaside town of Kep was established in 1908 as a station climatique and quickly became a refreshing retreat for the French colonial elite. After Cambodia gained independence in 1953, then-King Norodom Sihanouk kept Kep’s prestige alive by hiring revered architect and father of Khmer Architecture Van Molyvann to design a royal summer villa and other impressive structures.

Cambodia’s rich and famous followed in the King’s footsteps and during Cambodia’s Golden Age of the 1950s and 60s, the rolling hills that flank the tiny town were dotted with stylish minimalist villas. Kep was left to crumble during the Khmer Rouge regime of 1975 to 1979 and for decades all signs of its exclusivity were left to fade. However, the last decade has seen Kep slowly make a comeback as well-designed accommodation that harks back to its Golden Age heyday and a handful of restaurants and bars appear.

Watch women wading into the shallow waters to check their bamboo baskets for hauls

Famous for its crab, a visit to the crab market is a must. Here you can watch women wading into the shallow waters to check their bamboo baskets for hauls, buyers and sellers haggling over crabs and buckets of flapping fish, and freshly-caught seafood being barbecued on grills.

The Sailing Club is a popular spot for sunset, thanks to the restaurant and bar delicately perching over the ocean. It serves a variety of seafood-inspired dishes and creative cocktails. The adjacent Discovery Centre has boats for hire and offers sailing courses and sea-bound excursions.

Kep is also home to a small beach of imported white sand that is popular with locals – and gets extremely crowded during public holidays. Kep National Park takes in jungle-clad hills that boast vistas across to the ocean. An 8km walking trail takes guests through the park. Entry is US$1.

About a 20 to 30-minute drive from Kep sits the riverside town of Kampot. The laidback town where time seemingly stands still is slowly gaining momentum with visitors, especially in recent months as visitors switch Sihanoukville for Kampot as a desired destination. Nestled on the banks of Kampot River, the compact town centre comprises a central market, a riverfront that is home to a growing number of eateries, guesthouses and bars, and several quiet streets that house more spots where to eat, drink and sleep. The Fishmarket Kampot serves up plates that are as easy on the eye as they are on the stomach, coupled with idyllic views of Kampot River. Just along the riverfront Rikitikitavi serves excellent cocktails as well as some great food, and has comfortable rooms. Oh Neal’s is a great little Irish bar and Mea Culpa offers excellent value rooms just off the main drag.

The beauty of both Kep and Kampot is the ease of sliding from urban (albeit slow) life to authentic rural living. Just a few kilometres out of town, several guesthouses dot the tranquil river as it gently winds out of town – perfect for diving into the waters, kayaking, paddle-boarding or simply soaking up the backdrop of mango-lined waters and rolling hills on the horizon. These range from budget backpacker stalwarts, such as Naga House, through to Villa Vedici’s quaint collection of riverside villas and Sabay Beach’s elegant treehouses and man-made beach.

Bokor Mountain makes for a wonderful day trip. Unless you have your own transport or fancy sitting on the back of a bike – you won’t be allowed access without a helmet – hire a private car for the day, either through your accommodation or at one of the small travel shops in Kampot.

Dubbed the rice bowl of Cambodia the countryside is peppered with a patchwork of paddies, meaning escaping to the countryside is easy and comes with heaps of rewards

Sitting about 40km away from town’s centre, a smooth road takes in waterfalls, Buddhist monuments, crumbling churches, a giant casino and, at its peak, sweeping views that stretch across to Vietnamese island Phu Quoc. The derelict shell of Bokor Hill Station was until recently a highlight. However, Sokha Hotels took over last year, transforming it into an exclusive resort, meaning visitors can no longer explore its eerie crumbling shell.

Kampot is world-famous for its pepper, so head into the countryside for to find out more about the special ingredient. Used by top chefs in kitchens across the globe, the sharp pepper comes in four forms – black, green, red and white – and adds a real kick to dishes. There are a range of farms offering half-day visits, including Sothy’s Pepper Farm, BoTree Farm and La Plantation, or you can purchase your supplies at the Kampot Pepper Shop.

Despite being Cambodia’s second largest city, Battambang contains none of the cacophony of city life found in Phnom Penh or even Siem Reap. Dubbed the rice bowl of Cambodia the countryside is peppered with a patchwork of paddies, meaning escaping to the countryside is easy and comes with heaps of rewards.

The compact city – more a walkable town – is home to Cambodia’s best-kept collection of colonial buildings and other ancient architecture. Khmer Architecture Tours offers a downloadable map so visitors can take their time exploring the city. To get the inside info on the city, sign up to one of Free Cycle Tours’ trips, free walking and cycling tours led by Cambodian students.

Serving as Cambodia’s artistic hub, a visit to some of the independent art galleries and studios that dot the city is a must. Romchiek5 is a gallery and working studio for four young Cambodian artists and sits across the river from the centre, Sangker Gallery hosts changing exhibits from local artists and HUMAN Gallery showcases the work of Joseba Etxebarria, who travelled 37,000km through 29 countries by bicycle taking photos of people along the way. If you are looking for a place to stay, then you need look no further than La Villa, a wonderful 1930s-era French colonial hotel, which was the setting of the novel To Cook a Spider, written by Travel Begins at 40 founder Mark Bibby Jackson.

Called a norry in Khmer, the “train” is a small bamboo platform covered with a mat and a few thin cushions to sit on

No trip to Battambang is complete without a jaunt on the bamboo train. While the original track was dismantled in 2017, last year the government reinstated the line in a different area of the province, although we understand you can still use the old track if you ask around. Called a norry in Khmer, the “train” is a small bamboo platform covered with a mat and a few thin cushions to sit on. This rests on two sets of bogies with a motor at the back. A wooden pole is used as both brake and accelerator, with the train hitting speeds of up to 50km/h.

As Cambodia’s creative capital it only seems right that Battambang is home to Phare Ponleu Selpak. Widely known for the circus shows put on in Siem Reap and Battambang, the organisation serves as more than just a circus school. It offers underprivileged youngsters free arts training in a range of skills, including fine arts, animation, music and theatre. Visitors can take a daily tour of the campus before stopping off to see a circus show.

A highly recommended afternoon trip is to take a tuk tuk out to Phnom Sampeou, about 12km from Battambang centre. At the hill’s 100-metre peak sits the temple of Wat Sampeou and its sweeping views of the sprawling countryside. Visitors can explore the temple as well as the neighbouring Killing Caves. A sobering affair, this is where Khmer Rouge soldiers pushed their victims to their death. Inside sits a shrine of skulls. An absolute must is to head to the hill’s base just before dusk to join the growing crowds that gather before 6pm to watch the seemingly endless stream of hundreds of thousands of bats spiralling out of the cave for a night of hunting.

Other emerging destinations worth incorprating in your Cambodia travel plans include the rural province of Kampong Cham and its bamboo bridge – although the original bamboo bridge has now been dismantled and replaced by an alternative pedestrian-only bridge connecting the mainland with the small island of Koh Pen. The recently opened Hanchey Bamboo Resort is a great spot to revitalise while overlooking the Mekong River.

As mentioned in the Outdoors and Nature section of this Cambodia travel guide, Kratie is becoming another notable destination for those seeking to indulge in Cambodia’s nature and growing number of eco-activities. While those seeking to get away from it all are increasingly heading to the mountainous eastern province of Mondulkiri. Trekking through the jungle terrain, hanging out with elephants and meeting the indigenous Bunong hill tribes are popular activities.

One of the best ways to get around the country is through a reliable locally-based travel company with local insight, offering tailor-made travel itineraries. A couple we recommend are Hanuman Travel, which is co-owned by Lonely Planet writer Nick Ray, and Travel Asia, which offers bespoke, crafted private or group tours to Cambodia a la carte.

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Cambodia Flights

Ethiad, Qatar and Emirates operate direct flights from the UK to Cambodia, with a stop-over in the Middle East. Alternatively, there are several daily connections from Bangkok’s international airports. Eva Air and Thai Airways fly to Phnom Penh via Bangkok, while Malaysian Airlines flies via Kuala Lumpur, and Singapore Airlines via Singapore. Budget airline Air Asia also has flights to both Phnom Penh and Siem Reap from Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur, making it easy to incorporate Cambodia travel in a regional adventure.

Getting Around Cambodia

Bus is the most common way to travel across Cambodia, and thanks to ongoing improvements to infrastructure, is a lot quicker than it was just a few years ago. Private taxis can be hired through travel agents or your accommodation, and there are now several airlines connecting Sihanoukville, Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. As yet, the only train service is from Phnom Penh to Kampot and Sihanoukville. Tuk tuks are a great way to get around cities, with many drivers speaking remarkably good English.

Cambodian Language

Khmer is the main language although English is widely spoken, especially in cities and among the younger generation.