Nature meet Nurture, as Judith Schrut concludes her travels in Centre of Portugal with a rejuvenating stay at Casas da Lapa Nature & Spa Hotel.
I discovered many wondrous things during my recent visit to Centre of Portugal. One is that, for sheer luxury of the pure mountain air kind, you can’t do much better than spend a few days at the Casas da Lapa Nature & Spa Hotel.
Casas da Lapa is no ordinary spa hotel. For a start, it’s tucked away in the tiny mountain village of Lapas de Dinheiro, on the slopes of Portugal’s Serra Estrela Natural Park. The Serra Estrela – Mountain of Stars – is a very special place. It’s the highest mountain range in mainland Portugal, a spread of amazing landscapes, stunning rock formations, ancient forests, pristine river beaches and 20,000 year-old glacial valleys. Here, options for health and wellness are in its DNA, endless and everywhere.
My Casas da Lapa stay begins with complete silence but for the sound of the on-site waterfall and occasional bleat of a mountain goat. After checking into my quietly luxurious room with its generous windows and astonishing views, I’m given a sneak peek around the hotel and grounds.
Five Stars with a Difference
Casas da Lapa has all the hallmarks of a five star hotel, with notable differences. Topping that list is the hotel team’s deep respect and commitment to sustainability and the environment. Use of natural materials and low impact architecture are the norm; active engagement with the village community and promotion of nature tourism are priorities. Everyone who works here is local. Everything is regionally sourced, from furnishings, fabrics and wall art (from the Burel Wool Factory just down the road) to the meat, fish, produce and wine in the kitchen and tableware in the dining room (commissioned from Vista Alegre, Portugal’s oldest and biggest ceramics makers).
The hotel’s conscientious design means that even when indoors we remain aware of the outside world, wild and grandiose, with nature firmly in control. By contrast, inside is warm, comforting, cosy: a soothing mix of pale wood, soft wool, smoothed stone and subtle lighting. After a glimpse of the stylish rooms and suites, spa, gardens and swimming pools, we’re treated to a preview of tonight’s menu with its mouth-watering promise of five courses of mountain gastronomy.
Bat Caves, Mushrooms and the Devil’s Horns
But first, we’re meeting António from the Aldeias de Montanha (Mountain Villages) Project. António is a naturalist extraordinaire, an expert on native flora and fauna (plants and animals to you and me) and an all-around lovely man.
Casas da Lapa sits on the important and historical Rota da Caniça and The Great Route of Historical Villages. With primaeval forest and wildlife trails literally on its doorstep, the hotel organises hikes, bike rides and other outdoor activities so guests can get up close and personal with the area’s astounding natural beauty. António guides us on a lively sunset stroll through chestnut woods, mysterious bat caves, a patch of giant mushrooms and the weird and wonderful rock formation known as Cornos do Diablo – the Devil’s Horns.
Tasty Moments
Everywhere I’ve been on my visit to Centre of Portugal, it’s been an easy pleasure to find superfresh, delicious and frequently outstanding food and drink. From Caldo Verde soup at the Burel Factory staff canteen to goat stew and poached quince at a riverside restaurant, from chestnuts, wild mushrooms and just-picked olives at farmers markets to fresh spit roast chicken at a village Shepherd’s Festival, and cooked by genuine shepherds, I’ve eaten ridiculously well. But it isn’t until I experience Casas da Lapa’s ‘5 Moments Tasting Menu’ that I truly understand Portugal’s love affair with its food and wine.
The gastronomic wizardry begins with a rich and warming glass of Tinto Baga Bairrada before a blazing fire in the hotel library, where we are joined by Célia Gonçalves, Executive Director of Aldeias de Montanha. Moving on to the glass-panelled dining room with its glorious views over the Serra Estrela and tables laid with simple but elegant Villa Allegre porcelain, we are presented with the Chef’s daily changing menu.
For a remarkable 45€, the menu includes regional wines paired with each of five courses. Tonight this means housemade bread, notably the yummy, crumbly cornmeal loaf known as broa de milho, locally produced olive oil and tapenade, cheese and meats in flaky pastry dressed with a balsamic-honey reduction, fresh roast pumpkin and caramelised almond soup – and those are just the warm up acts.
Main courses which follow satiate our table’s omnivores and vegetarians alike. Then, the final ‘Moment’ is revealed: a glamorous tart of creamy requeijão and pumpkin jam.
Between courses, Célia shares her energy and enthusiasm for the remarkable organisation she leads. Aldeias de Montanha believes tourism and sustainability go hand in hand, are key to protecting and preserving these mountain villages, their history and culture and allowing them to thrive as vibrant, creative and naturally beautiful places for visitor and resident alike. To this end, Célia and her team work with a mix of projects, from co-working, ‘green’ treks and tours to support for local farmers, cheesemakers, bakers and artisans.
I ask Célia what makes her happiest and helps her measure success. She tells me the heartwarming story of a traditional village cheesemaker and her daughter. Years before, the thoroughly 21st century daughter left home for college. She has since returned to the family village and learned her mother’s cheesemaking skills. Today, the two of them are successful entrepreneurs in a business supported by the Mountain Villages project.
Time to Spa at Casas da Lapa
Next morning, I resist the temptation to linger in bed and watch sunrise over the splendid sweep of hills and valleys beyond my window. Instead, after coffee and breakfast in the light-filled dining room, I’m off to experience the Casas da Lapa Spa.
At reception I’m welcomed by gracious staff and wafts of eucalyptus steam, and invited to graze the Spa menu. I do love a well-written menu of any kind so read it cover to cover. The range of natural therapies and treatments on offer include Gingerbread, Cinnamon and Seaweed Body Wraps, Hot Stone Massage and Flower Therapy. There’s a steam room, sauna and Turkish bath, indoor and outdoor swimming pools and the chance to boost post-treatment feelgood factors in the private cinema or snuggled up with a book by the waterfall. I opt for the aromatic Anti-Aging Face Treatment, probably because it includes a “foot massage for greater relaxation”, the perfect antidote to yesterday’s hike and five course dinner.
It’s all pretty fabulous, the kind of indulgence that has you planning your return by the time you check out. With this in mind I note that Casas da Lapa also offers Wellness or Yoga packages. I particularly like the seductive sound of the Detox Program, “designed to renew your body and mind”. It’s filled with three days of Casas’ best: breakfasts, lunches, dinners, a suite with panoramic bath, guided walks, saunas, treatments and plenty of poolside joy. Mmmm…look forward to trying that one next year.
Further Information
For more information and bookings at Casas da Lapa Nature & Spa Hotel click here.
For a limited time, readers who book directly on the Casas da Lapa website will receive 10% discount on accommodation using code LAPA2020.
For more about Portugal Green Travel click here
For more information about Center of Portugal click here
For more on historical mountain villages in Center of Portugal click here
Judith’s visit was designed and organised ‘with love’ by Visit Center of Portugal TCP/ARPT Centro de Portugal and Portugal Green Travel DMC. Portugal Green Travel is dedicated to offering sustainable tourism services in Portugal; their mission is to promote responsible tourism by providing authentic experiences and minimising environmental impact.
Special thanks to Filipe Pinto, Hugo Texeira Francisco, João Ramos, Rafaela Carvalho, Liliana Carvalho and Dulce Goncalves and Luís Coelho/A2Z Travel.
Image credits as above; all other images courtesy Casas da Lapa & Visit Center of Portugal
