Coimbra is the perfect launch point for the next part of my voyage. Accompanied by my brilliant guides Rafaela and Liliana of Portugal Green Travel, we set off on the twisty, hilly drive inland to explore the magnificent peaks, valleys, forests and villages of the Lousã, Açor and Serra Estrela mountains.
Within minutes we enter an utterly different world, a world of spectacular beauty, of dense and fragrant mountain forests of chestnut, acacia, walnut and oak beneath an impossibly blue sky. By the time we reach our first stop I’m completely under its spell. We park, climb steep steps and peer cautiously over the crenelated walls of Lousã Castle, a tiny but perfectly formed 11th century fortress.
Legendary Lousã
Once upon a time Lousã was an important castle defending the new-born nation of Portugal against Moorish invasions. It crumbled into disuse in the 16th century, leaving only legends and a resident ghost. The most famous legend tells the tragic tale of Princess Peralta. Her father, King Arouce, built this towering fortress deep in the forest and imprisoned her there to keep her from the charms and arms of her beloved, Prince Lausus. Both King and Prince died soon after, leaving the Princess alone in the castle for the rest of her sad life. On a foggy day it’s said you can still hear her crying for her freedom and lost love.
The castle, painstakingly restored, re-opened in 2019 with amazing views, a visitor centre and excellent trails to and from surrounding villages. The area is a sanctuary for wildlife, heaven for walkers, birdwatchers, mountain bikers and river beach swimmers. Visible far below is Nossa Senhora da Piedade (Our Lady of Mercy) River Beach, perfect on a warm day for a dip followed by a riverside picnic. Or lunch at nearby O Burgo, overlooking the beach and one of the most famous restaurants in central Portugal.
Talasnal and the Schist Villages
O Burgo is closed today, but I’m assured that an equally tasty lunch awaits us in Talasnal, just a couple of mountain villages away.
My guides explain that Talasnal is one of 27 Schist Villages spread across the mountains, forests and valleys here, all centuries old and with indescribably thrilling views. Schist, a multi-coloured blend of slate laced with iron, is the building blocks of these villages. The villages were important protection and trade points in the past but by the end of the 20th century became rundown and abandoned. In 2007, village communities joined together, formed a network, raised public-private investment and have been rebuilding and restoring the villages, one by one, ever since.
Today they are attractive, sustainable living spaces and travel destinations surrounded by unspoilt and protected natural wonders. Meandering steps, slopes and paths lead to surprises around every corner; well-marked trails between villages connect centuries of history, tradition and landscape and make the area ideal for walking and exploring. Delicious, reasonably priced food in small family restaurants are another attraction, as is the chance to stay overnight in a restored schist house.
We’re lunching at O Retalinho, a tiny, cave-like restaurant in Talasnal run by couple Emilio and Maria José. Seating is at a handful of indoor tables with incomparable views of the mountains, or alfresco at a single outside table dangling over the sheer drop below. Despite its size, diners flock here for the specialty of the house. That’s Chanfana, the traditional goat stew, and not to be missed. The recipe is simple: take one elderly mountain goat, no longer able to produce milk or offspring but too tough for ordinary cooking, place in a black clay pot, add plenty of red wine, garlic and bay leaves and slow-cook for 24 hours. For dessert there’s Retalinhos, Maria José’s scrumptious chestnut and almond tarts.
Folk tales abound on the origins of Chanfana. Some say it dates back to the Napoleonic Wars, when invading French soldiers confiscated all village animals for themselves, leaving nothing for villagers to eat except tough old goats. The only way to make these edible was to soak in wine and cook for a very long time. My first goat experience and a great one.
Exploring the Mountain Villages
Over the next days we travel further inland, visiting more schist and historical mountain villages, each distinct and memorable in its own way.
There’s Gondramaz, at the top of a chestnut and oak forest, with background sounds of water gushing down the mountains. My guides tell me that everything here is built from schist of a particular shade. It’s home to artists and craftspeople, many of whom have left their mark with sculptures carved into village houses. The village has been adapted to be accessible for all, so even those with reduced mobility can enjoy getting lost in its narrow and winding streets. A well-marked track leads beyond the village, through forests and streams, until you reach the wonderfully named Penedo dos Corvos – Crow’s Cliffs.
Then there’s Piódão (pronounced pee-oh-dow), a traditional village known for its unique mountainside terraces, schist houses with blue-painted doors and windows and white church towering below cotton candy clouds.
We wander up the stone passageways behind the church, deserted but for a large family of cats sunning themselves between slates on a roof. Here we meet Antonio. A native Piódãonian, he needs little prompting to introduce himself and tell us his life story. Born here in 1962, Antonio recalls the old terraced hills of the village and surrounding dirt roads, swirling with dust from the occasional passing car. Actually, it was so rare to see a car that if one did come through the village, he and other village children would race after it, shouting and greeting the driver as if it were an occasion for a party. After leaving school Antonio moved to Lisbon, grew a family and earned his living as a policeman. Now retired, he’s returned to the village, where he is blissfully happy growing vegetables and just living his life.
Belmonte and Portugal’s Hidden History
At first sight you might think Belmonte just another charming old village at the end of a winding road atop the hills near Serra Da Estrela, but Belmonte packs a particularly powerful punch. Its treasures include Roman remains, a 13th-century castle and six significant museums. It’s the birthplace of navigator Pedro Álvares Cabral, the Portuguese discoverer of Brazil. But more than are Belmonte’s special links with Portugal’s deep, previously hidden, Jewish past.
To find out more, we’re taken on a fascinating walking tour of ancient Belmonte with a local volunteer guide, including the thriving Jewish Museum, historic Jewish Quarter and a small but active synagogue, Bet Eliahu, built into a cliffside near where the original medieval synagogue is believed to have stood. It opened in 1996, exactly 500 years after the edict prohibiting Judaism in Portugal.
In 1496, Portugal’s King Manuel I ordered the expulsion of all Jews who would not convert to Catholicism. Portugal’s significant Jewish population were forced to flee, convert or suffer worse fates. Many thousands converted but in reality led double lives. Outwardly they were devout Christians; inside their homes, often in secret cellars, they remained observant Jews. These Conversos or ‘Crypto-Jews’ – especially those who had escaped to remote villages such as Belmonte – managed to live safely in secret for over 500 years, many protected by their non-Jewish neighbours.
Our guide explains that although few Jewish families remain in Belmonte today, there is growing interest amongst the Portuguese in their hidden Jewish heritage and its remarkable history. I was amazed to learn about a recent DNA study, reported in The New York Times, which showed that at least 20% of Portugal’s current population has Jewish ancestry.
The Joys of Slow Travel
Between villages, we joyfully fill our time with slow travel at its very best: drives through more spectacular scenery, trail walks, a visit to the Burel Wool Factory where we chat with staff weaving on looms and sorting sheep fleece on the factory floor, and savour homemade soup in the works canteen, overnight stays at an Eco-Spa, a former medieval convent and a gorgeous schist house. We go on a street art tour of Covilhã with Elisabeth Carceller, co-founder of its extraordinary Woolfest, sip luscious ruby red Touriga Nacional and honeyed Fonte Cal at family-run Quinta Dos Termos Vineyard and enjoy folk choirs and spit-roast chicken at the Carrapichana village Shepherd’s Festival.
Markets, Mushrooms and Mountain Thunder
On our final day we’re joined by Luís Coelho, warm, witty and winsome co-founder of Portugal A2Z Travel, which run unique walking and biking holidays throughout Portugal. Luís and his colleagues take eco-travel very seriously and their philosophy is simple, “if it’s not sustainable we don’t do it”. These remote villages surrounded by nature’s finery in the heart of Portugal are amongst their favourite destinations.
I’m looking forward to the guided e-bike ride Luís has organised, but before you can say “bucketing down” a burst of thunder and sudden downpour swiftly change our plans. Instead we opt for a dry and glorious morning in nearby Mercado do Sabugal – Sabugal Market. Luís loves this market and is on a first name basis with every stallholder. He tells me this has been a particularly good year for mushrooms and insists on treating me to a 3 kilogram bag of fresh chestnuts as a souvenir of my visit.
Stunning Sortelha
We stop for lunch, the sun re-emerges and with a fat sack of chestnuts by my side, I follow Luís on a vigorous hike around Sortelha. Sortelha is surely one of the most beautiful and well-preserved towns in Portugal. Rich in Hispanic-Arabic influence (it’s a former Moorish stronghold and just 25 miles from the Spanish border), its timeless streets, houses and ancient castle are perched on a rocky outcrop and enclosed in walls of granite. Views from Sortelha Castle, stretching across mountains and over the glacial valley of the Zezêre, are magnificent. And like so many of the wild and wonderful places I’ve seen on this trip, it’s difficult to tell where nature ends and manmade begins.
Getting There
There are daily flights from London to Porto (2 hours) or Lisbon (2 ½ hours), as well as from other airports.
You can reach the Centre of Portugal from either Porto (around 1½ hour drive) or Lisbon (around 2 hour drive).
Due to the region’s rural nature, you will likely need to travel by car. However, if you want to go green all the way, the Great Route of Historical Villages is a spectacular if challenging choice, a 600 km, 24 stage loop of a trail, do-able by bike, hike or run. Officially that’s 30 days’ walking, 7 days’ mountain biking or 12 days’ running, taking in all natural parks, crystal clear river beaches, glacial valleys, castles, archaeological parks, villages filled with history and more.
Further Information
For more about Portugal Green Travel click here.
For more about the Center of Portugal click here.
Judith’s visit was designed and organised ‘with love’ by Visit Center of Portugal TCP/ARPT Centro de Portugal and Portugal Green Travel DMC. Portugal Green Travel is dedicated to offering sustainable tourism services in Portugal; their mission is to promote responsible tourism by providing authentic experiences and minimising environmental impact.
Special thanks to Filipe Pinto, Hugo Texeira Francisco, João Ramos, Rafaela Carvalho, Liliana Carvalho, Dulce Goncalves and Luís Coelho/A2Z Travel
Image credits as above; all other images Judith Schrut.