Lucy Daltroff travels Switzerland by train to experience the country’s sustainable tourism initiative – Swisstainable
I had never even heard of the term “urban golf” when I visited Chur, (pronounced “Core”) the oldest town in Switzerland. So, it was puzzling to be given a softball and a club by the Tourist Information Office. It turned out to be a fun and innovative way to discover the sights and hidden places of this beautiful place – the capital city of the most eastern canton, Graubunden and known as the gateway to the Alps. We were ten players in all, using street furniture as obstacles for the nine holes of the course. Then, with my final shot – a hole in one – I was absolutely thrilled to be declared the winner!
Chur
The nice thing about Chur, a settlement for 13,000 years, is that the narrow winding streets of the medieval old town are all car free, perfect for golf, while the rest of the city is bustling with shops, cafés, restaurants and bars. The cathedral was built between 1150 and 1272 and the wonderful wall frescoes date from the 14th century. Then right in the centre, a cable car goes directly into the mountains.
As a medieval town it seemed rather an unlikely place to be the birthplace of HR Giger the surrealist artist who is perhaps best known for his airbrushed images that blended human physiques with machines, his most famous creation being for the 1979 classic science fiction, Ridley Scott film, ‘Alien’.
Sustainable Switzerland by Train
I was in Chur for another reason too – the town was the starting point of my sustainable Switzerland by train adventure. Our guide Tanja told us that virtually all the trains in Switzerland run on hydroelectric power. “Nature is our greatest asset and sustainable travel is important. It creates greater awareness, depth and enjoyment. We call it here, “Swisstainable”.
Clutching my already purchased, Swiss Travel Pass, I knew I had unlimited access to trains but hadn’t really cottoned on to the fact that the Pass also includes buses, boats, and many museum entry fees and, this being Switzerland, the wonderful option of a luggage service that meant no lugging of suitcases – instead they arrived as if by magic at each destination. Tanja explained that booking to travel on the panoramic trains does incur an extra small reservation charge, but this can be avoided by using the regional trains, where the magnificent views are just as good – although there are no panoramic windows.
Visit Switzerland by Train : Bernina Express
My first experience of Switzerland’s railways was on the distinctive, red, Bernina Express that crosses the Alps and connects the north of the country to the south, passing by glaciers on its way to palm trees. Much of it is a UNESCO World Heritage listed rail journey and understandable it is a popular item on many bucket lists.
Although the train goes slowly, I soon realised that it was better to enjoy the magnificent views of lakes and mountains rather than trying to take too many pictures. The final destination is Tirano but I got off a bit earlier, at Le Prese, a little village nestling between steep mountain slopes. One farmer, Reto Raselli, realised that thanks to its unique climatic conditions it is an ideal environment for growing herbs. Today he provides them for the famous Swiss sweets “Ricola” and over 30 organic teas all grown here by the family who cultivate, harvest, cut and then package them so that the user only has to pour boiling water onto the leaves. Also, for four generations, they have managed the Raselli Sport Hotel where, unsurprisingly, tea is complimentary in every room and where the dining room serves excellent organic food from local suppliers.
Excellence on the Glacier Express
Whether any other train in the world offers an “Excellence” class, I don’t know, but the Glacier Express certainly does, plus the option of a five-course meal served at your seat. It is a wonderful experience on this most famous panoramic train that cuts through the Swiss Alps on a route that goes over 291 bridges and through 91 tunnels. It is a rare luxury eating a grand meal while looking out at such spectacular scenery. Along with the Bernina Express these two trains provides a segment of the Grand Tour of Switzerland a 1,280 km journey of which I was only taking a small part. The route and destinations can be mixed and matched to suit individual requirements.
As my whole visit to Switzerland was based on sustainability it made sense to visit one of the natural resources. Southeast of Interlaken, near the Grimselpass, the Gelmer Dam and its vicinity, is amazingly beautiful as well as being important in providing hydroelectric power. As a huge new dam was being built while I was there, so I couldn’t see it close up, although the scale is enormous and the setting of the mountains behind, more than spectacular. It is operated by Kraftwerke Oberhasli AG (KWO), a large Swiss energy supply company that operates a number of hydroelectric plants and cleverly uses the industry’s infrastructure to open tourist attractions that are related to the energy supply business.
Gelmer Funicular
One of these is the Gelmer Funicular a cable railway built in 1929 to facilitate the construction of the Gelmersee reservoir but not opened to the public until 2001.
I reached it walking across the wonderful Handeckfall Suspension Bridge, an exciting experience, although only suitable for those with a head for heights! Once I had arrived, I realised the open air funicular has an incline of 106% (or 47°). It was the steepest funicular in Europe, until the opening of the new Stoos Funicular in 2017 – incidentally also included in the Swiss Travel Pass. It is quite an adrenalin rush, transporting us thrill-seeking tourists to 1860 metres above sea level – especially as it was pouring with rain. Fortunately, all the passengers are provided with waterproof ponchos. At the top there is a gorgeous turquoise coloured lake which is good to walk around, but sadly the weather was too bad for that particular adventure.
Grimsel Hospiz
Home that night was the historic Grimsel Hospiz the first Swiss hotel to be mentioned in official documents way back in 1142.
It made headlines in 1932 as the first hotel in Europe to feature electric heating. This environmentally sound approach was also followed during the extensive renovation of the hotel in 2008 so that it is now heated using environmentally friendly waste heat from electricity production. The rooms are furnished in the style of the 1930s and are cosy, and clean, with stunning mountain views. Supper was a mixture of local regional specialities, and the staff were excellent at adapting, when I mentioned I did not eat pork. What a fabulous place to end my week’s adventure in sustainable Switzerland.
Main image: Bernina Express Copyright Swiss Tourism. To discover more about holidays to Switzerland by train click here.