Mark Bibby Jackson goes on a Nova Scotia road trip taking in UNESCO old town Lunenburg and Peggy’s Cove while discovering the amazing warmth of the locals even in the depths of winter.
In Nova Scotia they say ‘Sociable’ instead of ‘Cheers’. Perhaps this sums up the warmth and friendliness of the people who seem to take me to their hearts during my stay in this beautiful Canadian province.
I am struck by their politeness even before I leave the plane that takes me direct from Heathrow to Halifax. During my stay President Trump threatens Canada with tariffs. It is the typical action of the school bully picking on the good student.
Nova Scotia Road Trip : Queens County Museum Liverpool
Nova Scotia also seems familiar. Perhaps it is the place names. From Halifax I travel to Chester and on to Liverpool – I might be crossing the Pennines, instead we are driving through snowy terrain.
I always have a soft spot for Liverpool – it is the football team I support. So, I am interested to discover what Liverpool Nova Scotia has to offer. I pause by the sign, before crossing our Abbey Road – I know that is in London – with my companions as a homage to John, Paul, George and Ringo.
This Liverpool is in Queens County, an irony that amuses me considering Liverpool fans’ refusal to sing the national anthem at major finals. We visit the Queens County Museum, where we see an exhibition on privateering, the town is known as the Home of the Privateers. There is also a display designed around the lobster crawl month. Pam, our host for the week, donates a piece called The Pegged Pincher, which she has created from old lobster pegs.
I sign the book YNWA.
UNESCO Heritage Lunenburg
While Liverpool Nova Scotia might not be on the tourist trail Lunenburg certainly is. The town was founded in 1753 by the British although it was previously settled by the French. The indigenous Mi’kmaq people had been coming here for thousands of year looking for seafood and berries. They called it the place for clams.
We go on an interesting tour of the beautiful Lunenburg Old Town UNESCO World Heritage Site, with Liz Powers from Lunenburg Walking Tours.
This starts with a lesson in the former Lunenburg Academy on the history of the Blue Nose, a schooner which raced against the US for 18 years around these waters undefeated. The ship which now lies in Lunenburg harbour appears on the Canadian dime, and is one explanation for why Nova Scotians are dubbed ‘blue nosers’, although the freezing weather in which their lobster fishermen work might well explain it too.
The picture perfect old town is full of colourful wooden buildings, but perhaps the most remarkable is the Anglican Church. Sadly, this was burnt down in 2001 on Halloween night, but has been lovingly restored. The interiors are quite remarkable.
We lunch at the Grand Banker on the waterfront, which serves excellent mussels and lobster, as well as great beer from the Shipwright micro-brewery next door. This fortifies me for the latest trial of my artisanship.
In the late 18th and 19th centuries sailors would return from the Caribbean to Nova Scotia loaded with molasses which they traded for dried fish. They also brought back gifts for their loved ones. Sailors’ Valentines were a collection of shells stuck in octagonal boxes. They might take up to 100 hours to make, although we only had one in our workshop at the town’s visitors information centre. I adopted a minimalist approach to my artwork, while others plastered the board with all types of shells. As always on these occasions I found the experience relaxing whilst reaffirming my artistic talents equated to those of the sailors who bought their valentines from a curiosity shop in Georgetown rather than creating them themselves.
Mahone Bay
Our day concludes at Mahone Bay. This is a sleepy little one-road town which is popular with locals as it is only an hour’s commute from the capital Halifax. I love this place.
We check into the fabulous Black Forest Cabins, which consists of a selection of luxurious huts in a small wood. The setting in the snow is dreamlike. Black Forest also has a sauna, which we head to before dinner. I even manage to brave the snow while cooling down mid sauna.
A short walk takes us to the Salt Ox Brewery, a wonderful bar run by Patrick which brews its own beer. Both the dunkelweiss and the Irish stout were excellent. Then we dine at Betty’s at the Kitch, which had wood-fired pizza and, this being a Monday night, Indian food.
However, the highlight of our brief visit in Mahone Bay came the following morning as we walked through the snow into town for breakfast at The Barn Coffee and Social House.
The best coffee I experienced on my trip was roasted in the owner’s house down the main – only – street, and the pastries were baked downstairs. I chatted with one of the customers whose son is going to university in Stoke, England. Peggy Lee sang Fever on the sound system, and I could have relaxed here forever. It was one of the best little coffee bars I have visited. As I say, I just love Mahone Bay.
Peggy’s Bay
I was not allowed to linger, as Pam was already revving her hire car.
Peggy’s Cove is one of the major tourist attractions in Nova Scotia. Only 35 people live in this sleepy fishing village, but some three-quarters of a million people drop in to say ‘hi’. In mid-winter we had it all to ourselves and the snow; the advantage of travelling in the low season.
It is easy to understand why Peggy’s Cove draws in the tourist hordes. The setting of the lighthouse on the rock overlooking the bay is stunning.
The story is that Peggy was a local lass who used to meet her sailor lover here surreptitiously. One day her love never showed up and fearing he had drowned at sea, she threw herself into the waters to be with him. Let’s hope he wasn’t just running five minutes’ late. St Margaret’s Bay is named after her.
Peggy’s Cove is a protected area and the drive as we hug the curving shoreline is devastatingly beautiful. This is the scenic route to Halifax.
Oceanstone Seaside Resort
We conclude our Nova Scotia road trip at Oceanstone Seaside Resort right on the coast next to Peggy’s Bay.
The resort has a hydrothermal spa, where we spend the afternoon drifting between the steam room and sauna, two Jacuzzis and meditation room. The plunge pool I skip. I find this quite a liberating experience after the lobster orgy of the previous week, where I judged the annual Nova Scotia lobster roll competition.
My Crow’s Nest room – more house – is situated right on the beach. Despite the -10- temperatures I venture down to the beach to take a refreshing stroll, although the alure of the wood-fire stove in my living room proves hard to resist.
Our last lobster supper is at the resort. The following day I am to return to the capital Halifax to stay at the magnificent Muir hotel before my return flight. Our dinner is a lobster bisque followed by an amazing lobster ravioli and a great chocolate torte. It is a fitting conclusion to our lobster gorge.
Staring out across the bay to the small lighthouse on the rocks across the waters from my beachside villa the following day, I am able to reflect upon our journey. I came for the lobster – which was amazing – but my overriding memory is of the amazing hospitality of the people of Nova Scotia. It has been an amazing week, and for that I am truly grateful. I would just like to say, ‘thank you’ to the people of Nova Scotia, or rather ‘sociable’.
Things to Do in Nova Scotia Canada
Mark’s Nova Scotia road trip itinerary was devised by Visit Nova Scotia who hosted him. You can discover all the wonderful things to do in Nova Scotia at their website.
Where to Stay on Your Nova Scotia Road Trip
There are numerous great places to stay on your road trip around Nova Scotia, but we suggest the following:
Black Forest Cabins (main image)
An amazing series of luxury huts set in the woods with its own sauna, in my favourite town in Nova Scotia.
Black Forest Cabins | Stay in Mahone Bay, Nova Scotia
Oceanstone Seaside Resort
The beachside location is worth the stay alone, but add in the great spa and luxurious accommodation, Oceanstone is more the place to relocate to than stay a night.
Oceanstone Seaside Resort & Spa | Where the sky, the sea, and the land meet.
London to Halifax Nova Scotia
Mark travelled direct from London Heathrow to Halifax with Air Canada (7 hours), staying overnight at Hilton Garden Inn London Heathrow courtesy of Holiday Extras, the market leader in UK airport parking, hotels, lounges, and transfers – last year its customers saved an average of £191 per trip by booking their airport parking in advance. Booking an airport hotel means you can enjoy more holiday with less hassle. Plus with Flextras, if you need to cancel or amend you can without charge. One night stay at an airport hotel at Heathrow Terminal 2 is available for £127.49 based on arrival on 2 April. For more information and to book, HolidayExtras.com or call 0800 316 5678. From Heathrow he took the Heathrow Express into London Paddington station, which was seamless and swift.
Sailor’s Valentines
For more information on how to create your own Sailors’ Valentines at the Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic, click here.
