Mark Bibby Jackson pays his first trip to Nova Scotia Canada to meet Lucy the Lobster and become a judge in the annual lobster roll competition.
Southwest Nova Scotia is called the banana belt. Apparently, the weather here is comparatively mild – well it is Canada we are talking about. Standing on a beach in Cape Sable Island with a windchill factor of -21C at 8am, waiting for a lobster to predict whether the winter would continue for a further six weeks I thought the whole world had gone bananas. For, in this part of Canada it is not groundhogs that predict the length of winter but Lucy the Lobster, which when you think about it is no crazier than a groundhog. Afterall we are in Barrington Nova Scotia, the lobster capital of Canada.
Cynicism aside, this is the most wonderful celebration of a community, which has braved the frost to join Lucy. I feel most fortunate to be invited here to experience their Groundhog Day, and later on that day to be the only non-Canadian judge in the Lobster Roll-Off competition. It is the most amazing week and one I will cherish for ages.
Nova Scotia Lobster Crawl
Our week starts at Halifax, the capital of Nova Scotia, where I am introduced to my co-judges in the lobster roll competition, Jody and Nadine – Crystal will join us later – as well as Alain Bossé, The Kilted Chef. What Alain doesn’t know about lobsters quite frankly you don’t want to know. He has even perfected their mating call.
Our initial meal at the Halifax Marriott Harbourfront sets the tone for the week. They are truly bananas for lobster in these parts. Alain later explains how lobster exports from Nova Scotia amount to 2.5 billion Canadian dollars each year, with 60% of that going to the US. During our trip President Trump announced and then delayed 25% tariffs on all imports from Canada. If he follows through it could have devastating consequences upon the Nova Scotian economy.
But lobster is much more than an economic pillar, it is imbued into the local culture. It is what makes Nova Scotians, Nova Scotians. Something that an entitled president of the US could never understand.
Our first supper prepared by the hotel’s executive chef Ted Pace and his team is a Babette’s Feast of lobster. Ted has an unbridled passion for his food, and as I discover the following day over a chance coffee, is equally committed to sustainability and developing connections with the local community – including providing food for a soup kitchen for the homeless and less fortunate.
His is the first lobster roll of the trip, but the highlight is the starter which has large chunks of lobster served with caviar and pickled crone, which is a small tuber and had an amazing crunchiness. All the dishes are prepared especially for us – although the lobster roll is on the menu and only slightly adapted – and paired with cocktails. It is a great, imaginative and unexpected introduction to the cuisine of Nova Scotia. It sets the tone.
Learning How to Lobster Roll
The following day we leave Halifax to start our road trip across Nova Scotia. Our first stop is at Chester, which has some of the most sought after property in the Canadian province as well as a devastating turtle chocolate cake. This is served at the excellent Kiwi Café – the owner is from New Zealand, although my Canadian companions prefer the lemon square – there is no accounting for taste.
A word now for Pam Wamback who has arranged our trip. A stalwart of Nova Scotian tourism, Pam seems to know every single person in the province. She also drives us through pretty icy conditions during the week. Her mum is called Nancy. Now, I don’t normally mention our host’s mother in an article, but there again I’m not normally taken to her home.
Seldom do you get the chance on press trips, which tend to be tornado-like, to sit down and chat with a local on her couch, especially one who has no vested interest in the tourism industry. Having learned about Nancy’s two visits to the UK when her husband Perry went to Buckingham Palace as one of the finest town criers in Canada, I am reminded politely by Pam that I have to earn my keep.
So, we proceed to Nancy’s kitchen to discover how to prepare a lobster roll, and experience The Kilted Chef’s Lobster 101 in Nancy’s kitchen.
It is the highlight of the trip – and Alain hasn’t even put on his kilt at this stage.
My job is toasting the buns, although I do also help in chucking the lobsters and stuffing the meat in the rolls. Alain explains not only how to steam a lobster without losing your fingers – you cross their claws – and then how to chuck and stuff, but also the major steps the industry is taking to ensure the long-term sustainability of lobster stocks.
We also runs through the judging criteria for the following day’s competition, which assesses the quality of the bun, lobster, dressing and fillings, and necessitates us selecting a random number from one to ten – although Jody opts for halves – consistently.
Alain’s lobster roll is a traditional one, big on meat and small on mayo, although I love the crunchiness of celery and iceberg lettuce. It might have been a contender had he not been emcee for the forthcoming competition.
That evening we dine at the Emerald Light restaurant in Shelburne run by Brendan Pippy. Brendan scooped the Lobster Roll laurels the previous year with a far from conventional roll which included mango. Apparently, it caused quite a stir with lobster roll traditionalists. It was at this point I realise how seriously people are taking the competition. So, that night having been introduced to a Canadian Caesar, a wonderful take on a Bloody Mary with a clam (not lobster) and tomato juice, and eaten nachos, a shrimp po boy and an amazing cheesecake, I retire to my room to swat up on my scoring card.
Flat Felting
Heavy snow falls overnight. As I wander up and down the street taking videos and talking to my phone, locals stop their cars just to check I haven’t escaped from the local mental institution. I have an interesting chat about how treacherous the roads are, and am introduced to a dog who is celebrating his third birthday. They are friendly even to escapees in these parts.
In the morning, we drive to Barrington, where I prove not for the first time that I have the artistic and crafting ability of Lucy the Lobster – apologies Lucy – at the local museum where we partake in a flat felting workshop conducted by Sam Crowell. It is here that Alain reveals his inner self by needling the wool onto the felt with a venom that would make Jack Nicholson cry overacting if auditioning for the remake of The Shining.
The museum is in a 1843 former courthouse. In addition to running flat felting classes for a minimal fee – she believes in barrier-free programming, Sam also works with local schools and senior centres. “We need to be more than a centre for historical information,” she tells me. “We are reinventing what a museum is all about – community is so important.”
If there is any take-away I have from this trip, this is it. The importance of community in southwest Nova Scotia, and how this is founded on the lobster industry.
Lucy the Lob’STAR
We meet Sam again at lunch in Captain Kat’s where the multi-talented Pam is launching Lucy the Lob’STAR, an illustrated book for “kids of all ages from two to 92”, says Pam. It tells the story of how Lucy became a weather prognosticator.
Sam is dressed in a Lucy costume so it takes me a while to work out who she is. While Pam signs and Sam apes, the real Lucy is relaxing in the tank, or “spa” as Alain refers to it, in the restaurant seemingly impervious to the major role she will play the following morning.
The food at captain Kat’s is amazing. This is where I first experience creamed lobster, served with fish cakes. It soon becomes my favourite lobster dish. It is also the first time I try Canada’s national dish, poutine, which consists of fries and cheese curds, served with lobster naturally. Tasty, I am happy that nobody is counting calories on this trip.
After lunch we visit a lobster pound which can hold up to a million lobsters, before driving down to a nearby wharf where Pam’s cousin Curtis shows us his ship while telling us all about lobster fishing. I can assure you that when my travel writing career implodes due to AI I will not be applying for a job on his boat. A lobster fisherman’s life is tough – waking at 2am and then sailing to the lobster sites, often staying overnight at sea before unloading their lobsters and then heading straight back out. A few days later Curtis sends Pam photos of their boat sailing off in sub-zero temperatures. Anyone seeing them would never complain about the price of lobster again.
Groundhog Day with Lucy the Lobster
Fortunately, we stay the night in Barrington rather than on Curtis’ ship. The following morning, we rise early to discover whether Lucy will see her shadow. She does, which means there will be six more weeks of winter. Apparently, she has yet to be wrong since encroaching upon groundhog turf in 2017.
Despite the freezing weather – it is the coldest in the eight years – it is a really great experience, with warm support from the local community.
Afterwards we drive to Tim Hortons, a Canadian institution, to defrost over coffee and doughnuts before driving back to Cape Sable Island, which is stunningly beautiful in the sun. The view to the lighthouse on Cape Sable is amazing. I even manage to dip my hands in the cold Atlantic waters without developing lasting frostbite.
Lobster Roll Competition
My 15 minutes of lobster roll fame fast approaching, I am able to psyche myself up in my private jacuzzi at The Quarterdeck Resort while enjoying the views across Summerville beach to the ocean. Apparently, it is one of the best beaches in Nova Scotia.
The competition features 11 restaurants in the area all competing for the title of best lobster roll 2025. The competition, held at the resort, kick starts the lobster crawl held throughout February. Alain says the initiative has “turned the light on in the South Shore area in February when usually it would be dark”. He adds that now, “the restaurants are thriving, thanks to the lobster crawl itself.”
Alain performs his Lobster 101 – this time kilted – of which we had a sneak preview in Nancy’s kitchen before inviting us to introduce ourselves.
Then follows an hour of gorging, scoring and then dimly remembering 11 rolls. I recall part of Alain’s advice – that it is mainly about the lobster, and to be consistent. I take a photograph of my first scorecard for easy reference. Apparently, I am a tough judge but consistent. In the end, Captain’s Kat is acclaimed the winner, which pleases me as it is my preferred choice. My highlight though is a woman who confidently strides up to the table where we are judging to steal one of the whole lobsters used for the demonstration.
That evening we dine at The Quarterdeck’s excellent beachside restaurant where all the judges studiously avoided a lobster roll, although Jody does order a whole lobster which is mightily impressive. Now the pressure is off both Lucy and myself, I can relax in the heated seat in Pam’s rental car and enjoy the rest of our road trip around Nova Scotia to discover there is much more to visiting the Canadian province in winter than lobster roll. Lucy hopefully returns to her spa.
Things to Do in Nova Scotia Canada
Mark visited Nova Scotia as the guest of Visit Nova Scotia. You can discover all the wonderful things to do in Nova Scotia at their website.
London to Halifax Nova Scotia
He travelled direct from London Heathrow to Halifax with Air Canada (7 hours), staying overnight at Hilton Garden Inn London Heathrow courtesy of Holiday Extras.
Best Time to Visit Nova Scotia for Lobster
The great news is that you can enjoy fresh lobster any time of the year, as it is fished all-year round. This is strictly controlled by permits and zones to preserve stocks and support sustainable fishing.
Lobster Roll Recipe Nova Scotia
If you wish to make your own lobster roll, why not follow Alain’s Classic Lobster roll menu on the Kilted Chef website: https://kiltedchef.ca/recipes/classic-east-coast-lobster-rolls/
Main image of Mark, Alain and Lucy at the Groundhog Day celebration.
