I first heard of the Muir hotel Halifax Nova Scotia in Canada at a travel convention in London. I was so impressed by the presentation that I put it on my bucket list. So, upon being invited to the province by Visit Nova Scotia and discovering I had a day to kill after covering the Nova Scotia lobster crawl before my return flight to London, I just knew where I had to stay.
It has often been said but that does not lessen the value of its repeating, what we remember about a hotel stay is the welcome and departure. Friendly, efficient and understanding, the Muir’s staff tick all the boxes. While waiting I could admire the impressive artwork in the discrete lobby area, all of which is created by local artists. I particularly liked the tapestry by Alison Pincent Baker over the reception counter.
The Muir hotel Halifax only opened in December 2021, and it still has that fresh look. No expense has been spared, nor detail ignored in the beautiful design of the building’s interior. I particularly like all the heavy use of oak wood, the specially designed Muir tartan and the strong nautical theme.
Sustainability at The Muir Hotel Halifax
Sustainability is very much at its heart. Together with neighbouring Queen’s Marque it utilises a Sea Water Loop, drawing water from the harbour, and single-plan heat pump to help reduce its carbon footprint and create what the hotel claims to be “one of the most energy-efficient buildings in the region”.
Other sustainable practices incorporated into the hotel’s operations include green roofing materials and low-E glass to minimise solar heat gain. The Muir also works with regional partners and suppliers to provide local products and ingredients, to help further reduce its carbon footprint as well as providing an authentic Nova Scotian experience.
My Room at the Hotel Muir Halifax
You know you are going to get a well-appointed and luxurious room at the Muir, which is part of the Autograph collection, but I did not anticipate quite such a spectacular view. I could have spent days watching the ferry, which is the oldest salt water ferry in north America drifting across the harbour to Yarmouth. It was particularly spectacular in the early morning.
My bathroom had a lovely granite floor, a glorious round mirror above the sink, and partially glazed window to preserve your dignity if you are not well-acquainted with your room companion.
There was a good working area which allowed me to catch up on emails immediately after arrival, which the Muir was happy to bring forward as I arrived earlier than anticipated.
Queen’s Marque
I always want to get acquainted with my surroundings as soon as I arrive at a hotel. This time however, I stopped off on the way at the hotel’s True Colours art gallery, which featured an exhibition by Ned Pratt an artist from Newfoundland.
Sadly, the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, which is right next to the Muir, was closed during my visit. However Tidal Beacon an amazing sculpture by Ned Kahn made of stainless steel and composite panels never closes. The sculpture, which the artist says reflects the natural forces all around us, whistled with the wind, and I found myself quite transfixed with it, despite the sub-zero temperatures.
A block away from the Muir is The Old Triangle, an Irish alehouse which serves an excellent pint of Guinness as well as a seafood chowder I had for lunch. It is one of many great pubs in Halifax.
Muir Hotel Spa
Part of the Muir’s appeal is its spa, which includes a Halotherapy Salt room which was a first for me. The receptionist advised I worked up a sweat in either the steam room or sauna before entering the salt room, which has to be pre-booked. The idea is to open up your pores so they are more receptive to the salt. This is then blown over your body while you relax on a stone bed for 15 minutes. I was advised to breathe the salt in through my nose to maximise its benefit upon my lungs.
I found the treatment really relaxing, so decided to make another trip into the steam room followed by a swim in the indoor infinity pool rather than exert myself in the impressive and large gym.
BKS Speakeasy
The other main feature of the Muir is its food and beverage options. Before dinner, I went down to the third floor and walked all the way along the carpeted floor to the end of the corridor to what appeared to be a fire exit. Pushing it I found another door with a sign saying, ‘please knock’. I felt like Alice in Wonderland.
The door opened and Ashton invited me into BKS Speakeasy. I visited a speakeasy in Estonia but this was my first American one. BKS has wonderful views across the harbour – I positioned myself with a view of Tidal Beacon – as well as great cocktails prepared by Ashton.
I started with The Young Pretender’s Elixir, which consisted of rum, Johnnie Walker, sherry, bitters and Drambuie with a lemon twist, which satisfied my bitter sensitivities. It’s a riff on a Rusty Nail, while paying homage to the Young Pretender who apparently escaped from the English to the Isle of Skye where he passed on his recipe for Drambuie to the McKinnon family who sheltered him there. I followed this with Mother’s Ruin, a gin cocktail with lillet and a grapefruit twist which I felt had greater depth than the Young Pretender. I felt very chilled.
Peacock Wine Bar
I followed my prohibition drink by dining at Peacock Wine Bar, which is next door to the Muir. The wine bar has a heavy peacock design, which I loved. And I found myself dining for the first time in a mock bird’s cage – albeit a substantial one, more emu than peacock.
During my road trip through Nova Scotia, I had been impressed by the quality of the local wine, so I opted for a crémant from the Blomidon winery, which apparently is located right next to the ocean. I was impressed by its dryness and vivacity.
For the first time during lobster crawl, there was no lobster on the menu, but there was plenty of other local seafood. The kitchen led by chefs Bill Osborne and Moira Murray specialises in local products. The oysters were from Prince Edward Island, and came served in a sherry mignonette with prosecco spumante and a sprinkle of seaweed on top. At first, I thought the sauce dominated the oysters, but then I realised the delightful flavour they left in my mouth.
This I followed with fried halibut cheeks and cauliflower. This was a first for me, so I was surprised by how great the flesh of the fish tasted. It was possibly my favourite dish of the evening, lightly fried to entrap the flavour without drying up the fish or cauliflower. My main was a plate of scallops, which were seared and cooked to perfection and served in a bouillabaisse sauce with a touch of chilli and hazelnuts, with some wonderful squash. I ordered a glass of red wine also from the Blomidon winery. It was the first Nova Scotian red I had tried on the trip, and perhaps didn’t match up to the food.
With excellent service and an amazing jazzy soundtrack, the Peacock was an excellent choice for my final night in Nova Scotia. I had intended to return to The Old Triangle to listen to some live music, but after such a great evening I decided to retire early.
Breakfast at the Muir and Farewell
It is not often these days I find my room made for bed. So, in addition to the wonderful handmade chocolates I had discovered in my room in the afternoon, I was delighted to find my bed turned. They had even left a QR code so I could drift off to sleep listening to Wild Atlantic birds. It’s the small touches and attention to detail that makes The Muir a cut above.
In the morning, I woke to find The Tidal Beacon still whistlin’ in the wind, and the ferry ploughing across the harbour rather than the Mersey. The light was quite incredible.
The Muir hotel restaurant, The Drift is a great place for breakfast. I positioned myself with a view of the harbour and enjoyed the freshly baked croissant, and squeezed orange juice, as well as a hipster, which is a poached egg and avocado with chick peas, tomato and kale mixed with tahini on the bread. The eggs were cooked to perfection, and the tahini made the dish far better than your average avocado and egg on toast. This could become my new go to for brunch, there was so much texture to it.
The Muir is a wonderful hotel with amazing attention to detail, great service and stunning views of the harbour on a sunny day. It proved the perfect place to round off my glorious week in Nova Scotia. I am so happy I had that chance meeting in London otherwise I would bever have heard of it.
Muir Hotel Halifax
Autograph Collection Hotels
1709 Lower Water St, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
All photos by Mark Bibby Jackson.
