Mark Bibby Jackson ignores weather warnings to travel to Pas-de-Calais France during Storm Darragh with his mother. Does he live to tell the tale?
The plan is to visit the Christmas markets in Pas-de-Calais and to see the lights in Le Touquet. Then Storm Darragh announces himself upon the world. All sporting events are cancelled in Wales – and Liverpool – but we are not heading in that direction, are we? I check with DFDS – they have cancelled some of the earlier ferries but our midday one is still going sailing. I give my mother who is joining me on the trip and has recently broken her shoulder the choice – should we stay or should we go? With a never-say-die attitude that would have made Joe Strummer proud, she says, “let’s go, what’s the worst that could happen?”
The tailback to the Dartford Crossing – the bridge is closed due to the high winds – does not deter us, nor the announced delay in our scheduled ferry. Instead, the man at the DFDS check-in at Dover books us on the Dunkirk ferry instead. Now, that’s the spirit. So, a couple of hours after passing the White Cliffs, we find ourselves heading towards the French coast like riders on the storm.
Dunkirk Spirit
Fortunately, we are booked into the premium lounge so the closest my mother comes to danger is discovering they have run out of sandwiches. A couple of glasses of prosecco later and all seems fair with the world once more.
The only downside is the ferry to Dunkirk takes half-an-hour longer than to Calais, and the rough waters further delay us. Still, the crossing is smooth, and judging by all those people crashed out around the boat while I do my tour of duty, I am not alone in my assessment.
Originally, we intended to visit Bethune where they are celebrating the Cité de Noël, but our delay means we can only make a drive-through to see the lights, before hastening on towards Arras if we are to make the Christmas market before its 10pm curfew.
Arras Christmas Market
I leave my mother to secure our position at the bar of our hotel, the delightful Univers Arras, while I reconnoitre the town. Fortunately, I visited Arras a couple of years ago, so I can easily locate the town’s twin squares.
Arras’ medieval Belfry appears like Gotham City Hall with its searchlights shining up into the air. Or perhaps it is a re-enactment of the two world wars when the town was levelled to the ground by German military might.
The Arras Christmas Market has run for 35 years. Spread across both the Grand Place and the Place des Heros, it is an extremely colourful affair with the buildings illuminated for the occasion.
In addition to the traditional Christmas market stalls offering sweet and savoury delights, and festive music, there are impressive rides for the kids including an enormous 35-metre Ferris wheel and inflatable Santa.
However, what really marks this fair out is the stall offering fresh seafood opposite one with a fine selection of Champagne and sparkling wines – after all we are in France not Germany.
Having sampled a couple of glasses of blanc de blanc, I retreat to the hotel to join my mother in the bar, where I have some cheese and a glass of red wine before it closes.
Battle of Agincourt
Pas-de-Calais has seen its fair share of bloodshed. After driving around Arras so my mother can see more of the town than the inside of the Univers Arras, we make a detour towards one of the many war cemeteries in the area, before heading to the village of Azincourt, or Agincourt as us Brits like to call it.
On 25 October 1415, one of the most famous battles in British military history was fought here. Shakespeare wrote Henry V in memory of the Battle of Agincourt, which saw the English army defeat the numerically superior French troops under Charles d’Albret on St Crispin’s Day, largely due to the efforts of the Welsh archers.
However, standing in the wind on the tower built to commemorate the occasion, it is hard to imagine anyone fighting for anything here – it is just a vast muddy field – more cabbages than kings. But isn’t that just the folly of war? The fame might last for centuries, but who can remember why so many lives – 200 British and up to 1,000 French – fell on that day?
Normally, I find driving in France easy, but for some reason as I pass the battlefield, I briefly veer to the wrong side of the road but if you cannot drive on the left at Agincourt then where can you in France?
The fully accessible Agincourt 1415 Centre close to the battlefield provides an interesting timeline of the events leading up to the battle, which was in reality one of a series of squabbles between French and English monarchs in the 100 Years War.
On 13 August, the English landed in France with 12,000 soldiers and soon laid siege to the port of Harfleur. After a couple of months, Henry V, then just 28, proved victorious but had lost so many men that he decided to retreat to Calais. The French tried to block them, and so the two forces clashed at Agincourt.
After his victory, Henry returned to London where he held a triumphal march. However, his victory proved short as he died seven years later. English dominance lasted a little longer until defeat at the Siege of Orleans in 1429.
L’Hotel Barrière Le Westminster Le Touquet
That afternoon we arrive at L’Hotel Barrière Le Westminster Le Touquet (‘Le West’) to a warm welcome that stands in stark contrast to the weather outside. This includes an offer of a choice of tea, coffee or Champagne while checking in. Choice?
Someone takes my car from me – maybe they had heard how useless I am at parking?
In many respects the history of Le West reflects that of Le Touquet; an alliance of two nations in Pas-de-Calais. The only five-star hotel on the Opal Coast, the Anglo-Norman style hotel opened in 1924, making last year its centenary. Le West was named after the Duchess of Westminster who set up a medical group in the town during the first world war.
During its 100 years, many of the rich and famous have stayed here from Edith Piaf to Marlene Dietrich and Jeanne Moreau. Sean Connery, Roger Moore and Ian Fleming have all been guests, with the former signing the contract to become 007 at the Westminster.
In 2020 the hotel was renovated according to the design of Bruno Borrione. The attention to detail is immaculate. Grecian statues await you on each floor of the stairwell, behind which lurks Versace wallpaper. The beautiful carpet on the hallway makes me feel as though I am walking on a pathway, albeit one that springs underfoot.
In my room, avant garde prints and retro furniture recreate the art deco period, while more modern touches such as the coffee machine and power shower ensure this is not just a period classic. The complimentary water is Evian, mais d’accord.
Perhaps my favourite touch is the polar bear that takes pride of place above the mini bar.
Le Westminster Spa
Le West also has a spa deep in its dungeon. After enduring the cold during the journey, I am pleased to warm myself up in both the sauna and steam room, which I have to myself. Although I can hear the pleasant sound of children playing in the adjoining pool, it is more pleasant to discover they have left by the time I have finished my sauna.
I could have floated for ages in the pool staring up at the ceiling. But I have work to do. Le Touquet’s Christmas lights await.
A Warm Le Touquet Welcome
Sadly, the tail end of Storm Darragh is also waiting for us as we leave our inner sanctum.
The short walk into town proves challenging, and we discover that understandably the Christmas market had been cancelled for the weekend. The lights are there, but survival rather than sparkle is more on the agenda.
We dive into the first bar we can find – Algy’s Bar. A small tabac sports bar like you can find in every town in France, it suits us perfectly – warm and dry. The welcome is even warmer, so I settle down to a beer while mum has a glass of rosé. By the time we re-emerge a half-hour later, it seems as though we have become lifelong friends with all the customers, who wish us a good evening as we part.
Unfortunately, the one-star Michelin restaurant in Le West is closed for the winter, so we decide to eat in town at Le Paris Plage restaurant we know from previous trips. The assiette de fruits de mer is excellent as always.
We conclude our evening with a whisky in the hotel bar. The music is excellent, a mix from the 80s and beyond rather than the all-pervasive Christmas tunes that make me crave for the new year. It provides a lively ambience in contrast to so many hotel bars which I find rather stuffy.
Stroll Along Stella Plage and Lunch at Etaples
In the morning, the weather having slightly relented we drive a few miles along the coast to Stella Plage. Along the way we pass through the forests around Le Touquet which is part of the town’s charm.
Northern France – well, all of northern Europe really – is blessed with the most amazing open beaches. It feels as if they are never ending. I go for a stroll along the beach both bracing and brilliant in equal measure. A solitary windsurfer braves the water.
On our previous visits to Le Touquet we have passed though Etaples, but never stopped.
The port has a lovely fish market, so we decide to park the car and dine at Aux Pêcheurs d’Etaples, the restaurant above it.
Reassured by the proximity of the fish market, we order the plateau de fruits de mer. It is excellent, particularly the oysters and prawns. The setting is impeccable above the small harbour.
Le Touquet Lights
On our final night we stay at the Holiday Inn Le Touquet, located inside the forest of Le Touquet yet just a five-minute walk from the Casino Barrière du Touquet, this feels as if you are staying in the countryside. Much of the hotel’s design is in harmony including the restaurant ehich has a tree in its centre.
After such a gargantuan lunch we do not feel like dinner, so instead I take a swim in the hotel’s internal swimming pool and relax in the jacuzzi. Afterwards we stroll to the galleries on the Place de l’Hermitage opposite the casino. I am particularly impressed by the work of French Vietnamese artist Hom Nguyen.
The lights along the Place de l’Hermitage and covering the Parc des Pins opposite Le Westminster are really impressive. Now, the storm has finally abated I realise why people come to Le Touquet to see the Christmas lights.
The Crypt of Boulogne
The following day we head back to England. On the way I drop in on The Crypt beneath Notre Dame Cathedral in Boulogne.
The Crypt contains some 2,000 years of history, stretching back to Roman times. The murals are staggering in their detail and remarkably well preserved. It also includes some interesting artefacts such as British cannon balls from the 16th century and a gargoyle from the 17th or 18th century. However, what most impresses are the colourful murals in the Dome Crypt which date back to the 1830s.
Lunch in Calais
Our return ferry from Calais is scheduled for around 6pm, so we have plenty of time for lunch at L’Histoire Ancienne, a beautiful restaurant in the heart of Calais.
Claire and Patrick Comte bought the restaurant in 1996, and have turned it into a beautiful art deco restaurant. It feels as if you are walking back into the 1920s. Patrick hails from a family of chefs – he is the fourth generation – and Claire’s grandfather owned a sweet shop – hence the bowls of sweets in the restaurant.
The meal is wonderful. I have a salmon rillette followed by a sea bass and a brilliant meringue dessert swimming in the darkest chocolate sauce. Patrick sources the produce locally wherever possible, including buying the vegetables in the local market.
According to Claire, each time the restaurant is redecorated, they pay close attention to detail. The counter at the bar is an original of the period purchased from a local village. They use local craftsmen to reproduce original art deco pieces, such as the amazing light shades.
It is clearly a labour of love, which is quite appropriate as I discover while chatting to the couple that they met while working at Le Westminster. It is a small world.
Pas-de-Calais France : Journey’s End
After lunch we have sufficient time to stock up with wine for Christmas at the highly recommended Calais Vins, before heading to the port.
There, we discover there is an earlier DFDS ferry due to depart. We just manage to make it onboard as the final car on the ferry.
With mum safely placed in DFDS’ premium lounge with her prosecco, I take my position on deck. With the lights of the port and along the coast receding in the distance, I can reflect upon our journey.
What is the moral of my little travel tale? You might say it is that mum always knows best. Upon our return we discover people are amazed that an eighty-year-old woman had ridden the storm to go to Pas-de-Calais. However, I prefer to draw another conclusion; life is for living rather than listening to the weather report. Vive le voyage!
DFDS Ferries
We sailed with DFDS, opting for priority boarding and the premium lounge, which was a life-saver considering the storm we set off in. Despite the Calais weather the crossing was smooth and comfortable. The staff could not have been better in rearranging both sailing out and back. A real success.
Things to Do in Pas-de-Calais France
To discover all the things to do in Pas-de-Calais France, visit the local tourism website. Or you can read how Mark feels at home in Le Touquet on the Opal Coast.
