Mark Bibby Jackson goes on a day-trip from Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia, into the surrounding countryside.
There are times when I realise I never would have cut it as an artisan. In medieval times I would have been condemned to toiling fields and bundling up hay all day. Cushy jobs involving a modicum of skill would have been beyond me. Staring at the coffee cup in front of me, paint brush in hand is one such of these occasions.
Slovak Folk Majolica in Modra
I am at the Slovak Folk Majolica in Modra, a town approximately an hour from the capital Bratislava. Modra is renowned for its pottery, which dates back to the 14th century. In 1883, the Ceramic and Industrial School was set up here. Since then, they have been creating and decorating ceramics at the Slovak Folk Majolica. Majolica ceramics is now part of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Slovakia.
Our visit starts easily enough as Oliver demonstrates how to spin the potter’s wheel. I am amazed by the speed he churns out his vases – perhaps man’s inevitably doom at the hands of AI can be delayed.
Then we are shown the kiln where the pots are fired, before we look in on the workshop where a woman paints with the ultimate dexterity on the whitened ceramics. Everything here is hand painted.
Majolica is the name for the white glaze that is put on the pots – apparently it is named after the island of Mallorca. I take a turn to glaze, dipping the pot into the silica. Then the real test starts as I sit down in the classroom, put on my apron and try to replicate some of the most intricate patterns on my coffee cup. Truth to say I will not become a grand master any time soon. However, as always with such workshops, the experience is slow and relaxing, just so long as I do not look at my fellow guinea pigs more impressive creations.
Zochova Chata Spa
Our morning had started with a 30-kilomere drive from Bratislava into the Little Carpathian hills to Zochova Chata hotel and spa.
The spa hotel first opened in 1933, and given its beautiful setting it is easy to see why. This is the ultimate spa hidden in the forest – ideal for a nature retreat. Katarίna Mikulášiková, the hotel’s executive director shows us around the spa, which includes several saunas including both Finnish and herbal, as well as a plunge pool and relaxation room. The beautiful swimming pool has amazing views of the forest.
Zochova Chata also has a yoga teacher with free yoga sessions each Sunday morning, a well as occasional Aruyedic, detox and meditation retreats and workshops a few times a year. Occasional wine tastings and folk music sessions provide variety should wellness not be your thing.
Zochova Chata was the first climatic thermal spa in small Carpathians, due to the wonderful fresh air. Slovak and Czech politicians and celebrities come here.
Katarίna claims, I feel with cause, that the spa is one of the best in Slovakia. She explains how the building is designed along the principles of feng shui. However, it is the grounds that most impress, with excellent walking along trails, and guides available from nearby Modra. They also produce their own honey.
Palace Art Hotel Pezinok
After lunch at the restaurant Pivnica u zlatej husi, which is renowned for its goose, we continue to the Palace Art Hotel in Pezinok.
The original castle was built in the 13th century, and apparently is one of 12 historic castles in Slovakia.
At one stage in its history, it was converted into a recording studio, and vinyl recorded here are on display. Now it has been converted into an art hotel. They host concerts in its wonderful internal courtyard. Midge Ure will play here on 19 August 2025.
The hotel also has a gallery space with the largest collection of glass artwork in Central Europe, which I found really impressive.
The hotel produces its own wine. We were given a quick tour of the cellars followed by a wine and cheese tasting. Our group felt the Grüner Veltliner wine (2023) was the most impressive.
Pálffy Manor House
With the sun starting to set, it was time for our last stop on our day-trip from Bratislava. Pálffy Manor House in Svätý Jur was built as a royal mansion in the 16th century and recently converted into a boutique hotel – there are only three suites.
At the heart of the manor house is the most romantic story of Katarína Pálffy and Štefan Ilešházi who were separated in life, but reunited in the courtyard at the centre of Pálffy Manor House.
The hotel has a relatively young Viajur winery producing non-pasteurised organic wine, as well as an amazing micro-brewery – the 13% stout named after Maria Theresa was amazing. The first wine production was in 2016-8, with the brewery opened a couple of years’ ago.
The hotel has the most amazing Arte restaurant where we were most fortunate enough to have dinner.
Part of the trials and tribulations of being a travel writer is the necessity to dine out at the most amazing restaurants from time to time. Few, in my experience can compare with Arte.
From the doughnut amuse bouche to the sweet petit four the meal was outstanding, all of it served to perfection by the waiting staff in the most elegant of restaurants. My main consisted of an amazing char served with sea buckthorn and almond water followed by sturgeon. Each dish matched its predecessor and I was truly taken away by how world class the food was – my previous ventures to central Europe had lowered expectations.
Its Head Chef Jirka Zajíček has created the most incredible tasting menu using organic vegetables from their Viajur Farna farm, accompanied by Viajur wine naturally.
The gastronomic delight rounded off the most amazing day-trip from Bratislava.
Things to Do in Slovakia
If you are looking for more inspiration on a day-trip from Bratislava or what to do in Slovakia visit the official tourism website.
