On his way from Carinthia Austria to Bratislava in Slovakia, Mark spends a night in Vienna, to review the NH Wien Belvedere hotel, next to the famous Belvedere Palace.
A twenty-minute or so walk – or couple of stops on the S-Bahn – takes me from Vienna’s main station to the NH Wien Belvedere hotel.
This beautiful hotel was built in 1888 and is a listed building. It has an interesting history and was originally used as the printers for the Austro-Hungarian monarchy. After World War I and the collapse of the Hapsburg empire, the building housed the state printers for the new republic, producing its stamps.
It is also in the heart of the diplomatic area of Vienna. From the window of my well-sized room, I can see the Italian Embassy – or at least I think it is as I am useless with flags – while if you have a room at the rear of the building you oversee both Belvedere Palace and the Botanical Garden.
Botanical Garden
After an extremely painless check-in thanks to the excellent Anne, I head for the Botanical Garden, next to Belvedere Palace and gardens.
The Botanical Garden is now managed by the University of Vienna, but when it was established in 1754 by Empress Maria Theresa it was a pharmaceutical garden. It is still used as a research and education centre by the university.
Some of the original trees are still standing, including a vast 18th century plane tree. There are also two giant sequoia trees.
Compared to the ornate gardens of the Belvedere Palace, the Botanical Garden is more natural with areas devoted to the flora of Austria, medicinal plants, and cacti and succulents. There is also an interesting bamboo grove.
Free to enter, the main entrance to the gardens closes at 4pm in winter. It is also temporarily closed at the end of December for a few weeks, so if your visit is in winter it is best to check up whether it is open first.
Belvedere Palace
A gate leads from the Botanical Garden to the grounds of Belvedere Palace.
I experienced many Christmas markets during my few days in Carinthia Austria, but there is something special about a Vienna Christmas market. Few cities – apparently Nuremburg has more than 70 – can rival the Austrian capital for quantity of Christmas markets, and certainly not for longevity. The first December – not Christmas, as it was primarily for trading meat – market in Vienna was granted by Albrecht I in 1298. Unsurprisingly, there is one outside Belvedere Palace.
If you like your Christmas market to have a stunning backdrop then this is the place for you.
Belvedere Palace is regarded as one of the finest Baroque palaces anywhere in the world.
In 1712, Prince Eugene of Savoy commissioned architect Johann Lukas von Hildebrandt to construct him a summer house on these grounds. After the prince’s death the estate was acquired by Maria Theresa in 1752, who converted the Upper Belvedere into an exhibition venue for her imperial collection in the 1770s. It was one of the first public museums in the world.
Now, the museum contains an excellent collection of art, including Gustav Klimt’s Kiss.
As my visit coincides with a Sunday afternoon and lengthy queues, I opt not to enter the building, but instead to stroll around its wonderful grounds leading to the Lower Belvedere building.
KarlPlatz and the Wien Museum
Eventually, I find myself back on street, and walk the short distance to Karlplatz, which, needless to say, is hosting another Christmas market. Declining the opportunity of more gluhwein and sauerkraut, I enter the Wien Museum, which has an interesting exhibition on the history of the city. The view from the terrace at the top of the building down into Karlplatz is amazing especially as the sun douses its fire and the light dims.
I discover the café on the ground floor to be an excellent place to meet friends and grab a coffee or beer. The museum is free to enter on a Sunday.
Being a Liverpool fan, and my visit happening the day Liverpool are playing Manchester City, I spend my evening in a sports bar.
Champions Sports Bar in the Vienna Marriott Hotel has to be the best sports bar in Vienna, but there are no free tables and standing is not permitted. Instead, directed by the helpful staff, I head to Billabong Australian pub where I chat with a couple of Viennese Liverpool fans during the game. Apparently Flanagans is another good option for a sports bar in Vienna. After Liverpool’s victory, I walk back to the NH Wien Belvedere.
Hotel NH Wien Belvedere Breakfast and Spa
Apart from its great location, I would say the breakfast at the NH Wien Belvedere is its key draw. I am a fan of Germanic breakfasts over their British cousins, preferring bread and cheese, with a selection of juices, fresh fruit and muesli to fried bacon and eggs. The breakfast at the NH Wien Belvedere has a vast array of what I like, including some great houmous and refreshing juices. It also has a wonderful view of the beautiful gardens to the rear of the building.
I spend the rest of the morning relaxing at the hotel, as my pick up for Bratislava is at noon. First, I catch up with some emails in my room which had a simple décor, with a retro feel, like something out of the Cold War. There is also a coffee machine and large bottles of complimentary water.
Then, I go to the spa at the NH Wien Belvedere, to find the whole place to myself. I sweat off the beers of the night before in the steam room and sauna, intermittently taking a break in the relaxation room. Like the décor of the building, there is a pleasing simplicity to the spa, and I find myself totally chilled by the end of my hour’s stay. It is the most relaxing conclusion to my very satisfactory stay at the NH Wien Belvedere.
Vienna City Card
Visit Austria kindly provided me with a Vienna City Card, which provided me with access to the city’s excellent public transport as well as museums and galleries, such as the Belvedere Palace. A one-day Vienna City card costs €17, while a three-day pass is €29.
NH Wien Belvedere Vienna
For more information on the hotel, or to reserve a room, click here. Room rates are from €90.