Mark Bibby Jackson stays at the Montigo Resorts Somerset at Charlton House, a beautiful Georgian country house that has been given a fresh spice of life.
Sometimes I find myself longing for Southeast Asia, the region I called home for a decade, and during my two-night stay at Montigo Resorts Somerset at Charlton House, I detected a whiff of longing for the East.
Nothing could be further from my mind as I pull at the drive way to the beautiful Georgian hotel recently incorporated into the Montigo Resorts group as a luxury hotel.
History of Charlton House Shepton Mallett
Charlton House’s Grade II listing states that it was built around 1810, although the architect is unknown. It has more than a touch of Georgian grandeur about it, which is carried through to the interior, including the wonderful staircase with cast iron balusters, and moulded wooden handrail. Some of the rooms have 19th fireplaces, which like the staircase, are mentioned in the listing.
The land used to be owned by the Ames family, which is apparently a name of some repute in these part. They made their money as merchants and clothiers. It is understood the original 17th century Charlton House was built for Roger Ames as a wedding gift for his bride somewhere between 1630 and 1650. The wing in which the spa is currently located – and in which we stayed – is from the original building, although it has been extensively restored.
Reverend William Provis Wickham bought the land in 1804, and moved the road further away, as well as adding the Georgian porch. When he died, Charlton House was advertised as a family residence adapted to ‘the occupation of a Gentleman’s family’ – the quintessential English country house set in 10 acres of land.
It wasn’t until the 1960s that Charlton House was converted into an exclusive hotel by Ken Seaton, the owner of the Ilchester Hotel. Guests who have stayed here include the former King of Thailand, the Duke of Edinburgh and Sir Cliff Richard.
Roger Saul, of the Mulberry acquired the property in 1996, and the interior design is still indebted to the founder of the designer label. In 2023, the hotel was acquired by the Singapore KOP Group and incorporated into the Montigo Resorts brand.
An Asian Meal
After checking in, I relax in the spa area, glancing through the night sky towards the full moon. I follow this with a quick Finnish sauna. Then we head to the bar for a couple of aperitifs before dinner. Ying and yang.
Earlier I chatted with Imran Mannan, the resort’s manager, who explained the menu is a mix of British and Asian cuisines. Imran comes from Colombo, Sri Lanka.
“I’m very passionate about my food and recipes,” he says. “I want people to experience Asian taste in an English house.”
The dinner menu allows our palate to travel both East and West. I have a tandoori monk fish tail to start set on a bed of mango, while my companion enjoys some spicy prawns. Having gone Asian for the starters we stick closer to home for the mains. My hake is wonderfully light and served with some excellent white asparagus, while my companion’s steak was perfectly blue. Unusually, I feel the best dish is the dessert – we both opt for the same – a chocolate delice which was rich, dark and crunchy, all washed down by an excellent Saint-Émilion.
Staying at Montigo Resorts Somerset at Charlton House
What makes Charlton House stand out is the variety – and luxury – of its rooms. In total there are 28 rooms and suits all with an individual touch and design. In addition to the 19th century fireplaces and staircase, there are more modern touches such as the art deco chandelier in the lounge area.
Our rooms have their own private patio opening onto the sumptuous grounds. In the morning, I wake to the sound of a robin chirping away in the trees. It feels as though I am immersed in nature and I am glad the reverend decided to relocate the road.
The 10-acre grounds are delightful to stroll – or on long summer evenings – laze around in. There are also some ancient trees, into one of which my colleague Jonny managed to crash his drone.
Afternoon Tea at Charlton House
Over breakfast my companion says that what is so good about the hotel is that it is all so natural. It is like having a house in the country only without the vicar popping over for tea. Or at least there was no sign of any cleric that afternoon as we enjoy our afternoon tea served in Bobo’s bistro – named after the owners’ dog.
I’m not sure the vicar would have approved of the tea in any case, which came served without tea but with a delightful bottle of prosecco instead. Indulgences! The sandwiches, which included cucumber as well as smoked salmon, cheese and ham varieties, were served with crusts removed, and the fluffy scones came with cream and strawberry jam – just as they should.
Montigo Spa
After such sweet treats, I was glad that I had booked in for a massage.
There is also an Asian touch to the Montigo Spa, which is run by Yaya, who came to Somerset from her native Indonesia, where she had established the Montigo Spa in Batam.
“In Indonesia when you get sick the first thing you do is go to a massage – you don’t really go to the doctor,” she explains. “It has been handed down through generations, so when I help people feel better, actually it makes myself feel better.”
Yaya must have felt much better after my treatment. I opted for the Montigo Herbal Poultices Massage, which consisted of Yaya stretching my limbs before applying the hot poultices filled with Asian herbs to various parts of my body. This was no pampering treatment that flatters to deserve, but a full-on therapy that made my body feel much more supple afterwards than it had in months.
Asian Hospitality in England
Imran had explained the vision of the hotel is to bring Asian hospitality to an English country house.
“Hospitality in Asia is on a different level to what we do in Europe,” he says. “From our warm welcome to their farewell, we always look after our guests. Service is my pride and my staff is my strength. This is what makes a guest’s stay memorable.”
This certainly was my experience. Under the previous ownership the reputation of Charlton House faltered. Under Imran’s stewardship and in Yaya’s excellent hands, the hotel is heading in the right direction – bring an eastern touch to the west of England.
Shepton Mallett
As Imran had promised our departure was seamless though a bit painful – I would have willingly lingered longer. On our way back we popped into the adjoining town of Shepton Mallett. Closer to the Glastonbury Festival site than the village of Glastonbury, many a musician and agent has stayed here to avoid a night under canvas in the mud.
A pleasant medieval market town, Shepton Mallett is perhaps better known for its prison, which was built in 1625, and when closed in 2013 was the oldest in the country. When in Shrewsbury, we visited the Victorian prison there, I just hope that this is not becoming habit forming for me.
The prison has guided and non-guided tours as well as escape rooms and ghost tours of an evening. The Kray twins were incarcerated here in the 50s, for avoiding doing their national service. And although some people say they have seen the ghosts of London’s most famous gangsters here at night, I can assure you they are most definitely buried in Chingford, in the same cemetery as my grandparents, who were much more loveable and worthy characters. Others claim to have seen a White Lady walking around one of the wings.
Between 1942-45, Shepton Mallett was converted into an American military prison, during which time there 18 executions two of them by firing squad. A plaque indicates the wall against which the men were shot. There is also a tiny cell from the 1700s in which you can crawl, not that I would recommend it, especially if you suffer from claustrophobia. There really is insufficient room to lie down.
In its latter years the prison used to hold lifers, sexual offenders and murderers, including the Worcester Monster. Now, it is used for filming – Paddington 2, Outlaws, Wicked Little Letters and Des have all been ‘shot’ here.
On our drive eastwards, we see the most amazing Supermoon over Stonehenge, which is a quite remarkable site. After my brief sojourn at Montigo Resorts Somerset at Charlton House, I feel tempted to extend my journey further east. However, as Imran says Charlton House provides an Asian experience in an English country home without you having to travel to Asia. Maybe next time I feel a yearning for Asia I’ll pop back to Charlton House – a little bit of Asia in Somerset.
Montigo Resorts Somerset at Charlton House
Further details, Montigo Resorts Somerset at Charlton House prices and how to book, can be found here.
