Mark Bibby Jackson travels to Klagenfurt in Carinthia Austria to be re-inspired by the magic of Christmas.
Sometimes in the uber-commercialised world we live, it’s easy to forget the magic of travel in general, especially around Christmas. In the last few years, Christmas markets have spread across the UK and Europe with an alacrity only matched by the revenue they generate. Gluhwein, bratwurst, wooden shacks and candles can be found in glittering town squares across the continent. But in the desperate search to squeeze the tourist buck ever harder, have we lost the essence of Christmas?
I don’t mean this in any religious sense – I am an atheist – but in the way the festive period can bring communities together and provide a much needed sense of magic, not only for children.
On my recent trip to Carinthia in Austria, one member of our group confessed she had recently been to both Budapest and Zurich and the only real difference between the Christmas markets in the two cities was the price – Zurich’s unsurprisingly being significantly more expensive.
Klagenfurt Christmas Market
Which is why when we visit the Hafenknistern Christmas market in Klagenfurt, I am overwhelmed by the beauty of the occasion. The market, which was only started in 2023, is spread on both sides of the Landhafen canal which leads from the city to Wörthersee.
Welcoming and welcome music is played by a brass band – the Three Musketeers – while craftspeople demonstrate their skills. One man is carving wooden objects you can purchase. At the entrance we passed a small pen where sheep patiently wait to be petted by children young and old alike. The wooden shacks have been replaced by white tents, which are interspersed with charcoal pits to keep everyone warm. Adorned with lights, the canal is beautiful. We stop at one of the tents to enjoy an apple-based Wozi Punch which helps to keep us warm.
But above all the attractions it is the people that make the market so real. I hear no English spoken, although there is a group of Asian tourists that attracts the attention of the photographer for the local paper. But apart from them and us, everyone seems to know each other. Marcus, who works for the Klagenfurt tourism department and who is guiding us around, seems to know all of them, constantly stopping to chat with someone or other. It is a refreshing experience, but make sure you come here from Thursday to Sunday as the market runs only on these days through December until Christmas.
Klagenfurt City Tour
Earlier in the day, we had been taken on a tour of the city, which has a population of 100,000 and is the capital of Carinthia, a province to the south of Austria, close to both Slovenian and Italian borders. Alenka, our guide on the Klagenfurt city tour has Slovenian roots.
The town was founded by Bernard von Spandheim in the 13th century but the renaissance town was burnt to the ground in the 16th century and redeveloped according to an Italian design. It was also enlarged seven-fold with the new Klagenfurt, including the 16th century New Market Square built around the old town. Klagenfurt was also fortified with a city wall to protect it from the Ottomans, although little of it remains.
The New Market Square has a statue to Maria Theresa, who is revered in these parts, as well as another of a dragon, who used to stalk these parts and according to one legend ate virgins, being fought by Hercules. Neither Marcus nor Alenka seem to know why the ancient Greek has been transposed in time and place to the main square in Klagenfurt.
The New Square has a pretty enough Christmas Market – although nothing to compare with the one on the Landhafen, which is open every day from mid-November. Here you can buy maischalan, a traditional Carinthian dish made of barley and pork, which resembles a haggis. Some of our group try it for lunch in the Bierhaus zum Augustin, while I sample the local cheese dumplings (kärntner kasnudeln), which are excellent if a little filling for lunch.
The city has the beautiful Klagenfurt Cathedral, which we visit, as well as the striking art deco theatre built towards the start of the previous century. However, it is St Egid Church we climb after lunch for wonderful views of the city and up to the mountains.
Badehaus am Millstätter See
Carinthia is a region noted for its lakes – there are apparently 1,000 of them left from the Ice Age. The following morning, we travel to the Badehaus am Millstätter See.
The spa has excellent views of Lake Millstätter on which it sits. After a sauna we pop down for a quick dip in the lake, which is remarkably refreshing, although I confess, I could only bear a few knee-deep seconds in the ice cold waters.
The spa also has an outside swimming pool with much warmer waters in which we can float watching the amazing clear waters and snow-capped mountains on the far side of the lake. It is a beautiful moment.
After my float, I pop into the steam room to rub my skin with some salt which make it feel even softer than usual. There is also a Turkish sauna, which has several herbal sessions, and offers great views across the lake, where I can see swans gliding on the waters.
After a lovely lunch at the bathhouse restaurant, which consists of a local brown trout, we head to the mountains. On the way our taxi driver Alfred says, “I think I live in Paradise,” I concur.
Katschberg Advent Path
In addition to its lakes, Carinthia is noted for its mountains. It has the highest point in Austria – the Großglockner (3,798 metres). After lunch we drive to Katschberg, a small mountain village focused on tourism. It is popular in the summer with hikers and in winter with skiers.
As we arrive snow dragons are breathing onto the slopes in preparation for the ski season which starts the following week.
The main reason for our visit is to walk the Katschberg Advent Path, a few miles down the hill. Fortunately, we ride down by horse and cart; Henry and Martin our two trusty steeds.
The three-and-a-half-kilometre trail is spectacular. A series of huts where locals sing, play music, tell traditional tales, and in one hut a couple of angels make teddy bears. In between we have our mugs constantly filled with tea to keep us warm at the fire stations – gluhwein and schnaps are also available at a small cost.
Only launched a couple of years ago, the advent trail is an interesting local initiative. It costs €25, with €30 for the return horse buggy ride.
Lake Wörthersee and Pyramidenkogel
The following day we head to the town of Velden on Wörthersee, which is the most famous lake in Austria. We stroll around the small Christmas market, but as it is a morning nothing much is happening. After lunch we take a ride around the lake.
I am a sucker for boat trips. With the sky and lake rivalling each other for blueness all seems fair in the world.
We disembark on a peninsula to visit Maria Worth church, which has surely the most well-lit crypt in the world. I love the battered bridge roof leading to the church, as well as the mural on its front wall.
A short drive away, Pyramidenkogel is the tallest wooden observation tower in the world, standing some 100 metres. Compared with the climb up St Egid Church, two days’ earlier, this seems like a walk in the park.
From the top we can see the mountains marking the borders with both Slovenia and Italy, as well as towards the lake; it is amazing. We are really fortunate with the weather. The blue skies offer amazing visibility. Some of my colleagues opt for the tubular slide down the tower, which they all seem to enjoy – well survive – but I opt for a more leisurely stroll down the tower, enjoying the incredible views and silence with each step intermittently punctuated by the screams of those who opt for the life in the fast lane.
Klagenfurt Revisited
On our final evening, we return to Klagenfurt to visit Schleppe brewery and distillery, which has brewed beer for more than 400 years.
Here we are treated to a selection of schnapps and whisky, as well as a craft beer. It is a small, private brewery, which does not produce that much beer. However, they hold many tastings as well as 120 events per year in their large space. Both schnapps and beer are excellent, and I particularly enjoy the raspberry schnapps spray which you can add to champagne or sparkling wine.
Sufficiently fortified, we walk to Das Kulinarium restaurant – surely one of the finest in Klagenfurt, where we have the most amazing multi-course meal, which surprises us most pleasantly at each corner. I really like the small balls given as an amuse bouche which explode with flavour in your mouth. The Jerusalem artichoke soup is excellent as is the char as a main. The meal is rounded off by the most amazing white chocolate soufflé, which is absolutely perfect.
Afterwards, a few of us return to the Christmas market in the New Square. There, people are drinking gluhwein and beer in traditional style. Perhaps it’s appropriate to end our constantly surprising Christmas journey through Carinthia Austria in a traditional way. There is clearly a market for the mass repeated ‘authentic’ Christmas market, but fortunately with a little bit of imagination and community spirit, there is also space for a different type of Christmas market, one which helps to put the magic back into Christmas. In this Carinthia excels.
Where to Eat at Carinthia in Austria
In addition to having some fine beers, the Bierhaus zum Augustin is a traditional Austrian Inn and a great introduction to the local Carinthian cuisine including maischalan and the vegetarian cheese kärntner kasnudeln.
Princs is a contemporary family run restaurant in Klagenfurt, where we had a Christmas menu. The Italian dishes looked amazing.
Das Kulinarium has the most wonderful kitchen. The meal was probably the best I have enjoyed on all my travels to Austria. This is excellent fine dining with surprising twists.
Spas in Carinthia Austria
Bathhouse Millstätter See is only a hour or so drive from Klagenfurt. It has the most beautiful setting on Millstätter See, with swimming pool, sauna, steam and great food.
Carinthia Austria Hotels
Klagenfurt
We stayed at Select Hotel Moser Verdino a beautiful hotel in the heart of Klagenfurt am Wörthersee, close to the New Market. This had spectacular views of the city, especially from its rooftop bar. Our final night was at Hotel ibis Styles, which was also centrally located and had excellent rooms. It was convenient for my train to Vienna.
Katschberg
Hotel Bacher am Katschberg is your quintessential Austrian Alpine lodge. Beautiful wood throughout, and offering excellent views. Just beware of the snow dragons.
Things to Do in Carinthia Austria
For more information on the things to do in Klagenfurt, click here, for Katschberg, click here, and for things to do in Carinthia Austria, click here.
Getting to Carinthia Austria
Ryanair have flights from London Stansted to Klagenfurt, which is a lovely little airport, twice a week (every Thursday and Sunday) during winter season.
All images either taken by or featuring Mark Bibby Jackson.