Malta has never been a place high on my non-existent travel bucket list. I was put off it by tales of a family holiday there to which I was excluded that involved poor food, bad weather and endless churches. To compound matters, I was supposed to visit the island post-Covid but on the eve of my trip I received a High Court Writ mistakenly served upon me which prevented my travel. So, as I arrive on the Mediterranean island after a short flight from London Stansted Airport with Jet2 Holidays, my head was full of confused thoughts. The torrential rainfall that greeted us did nothing to improve matters.
Our hotel was in St Paul’s about an hour away from the capital Valetta. This is the type of holiday destination that proves popular with UK tourists with local British pubs on tap. We walked along the coast stopping off for a beer by the sea with some locals before dining at Venus, an excellent Italian restaurant run by Maltese from Valletta.
Travelling through Malta by Bus
The Maltese capital was our destination the following day. One of the advantages of booking Jet2holidays to Malta is that you can sign up for excursions at your hotel. However, we chose to travel like locals in Malta, and discovered from the very hopeful staff at our AX ODYCY resort that the TD13 bus stopped right outside the hotel.
The ride which hugged the coast most of the way – sit on the left – took 45 minutes and cost €2.50. It dropped us off right by the Triton Fountain in the heart of the Maltese capital.
St Johns Co-Cathedral
The rains of the previous day had disappeared and it was a delightful late September day that greeted us as we walked around the Maltese capital. The weather was to continue fair throughout our trip.
Valletta was founded in 1566 when Jean de Valette – after whom the city is named and who was the Grand Master of the Knights Hospitaller (or Knights of St John) – built a fortified city here after Fort Saint Elmo had fallen to the Ottomans the previous year.
We had timed tickets for St Johns Co-Cathedral, our first destination, but apart from that we were free to wander around as we liked.
Dedicated to St John the Baptist, St Johns was built in 1577 and is a masterpiece of Baroque architecture. Valletta is most definitely a Baroque city, and it even has its own Baroque Festival in January. However staggering are the walls, it is what lies below that grabs my attention. Described as “the most beautiful floor in the world” on its website, it is littered with marble tombstones commemorating knights of the order. I certainly wouldn’t disagree.
The church also has two paintings by Michelangelo Merisi, better known as Caravaggio. There is also a Caravaggio wing up some steps, which provides an interesting insight into the life of the troubled painter, who lived in Malta for just over a year (1607-8) during which time he painted The Beheading of St John the Baptist and St Jerome Writing, the two paintings on display. Both are masterpieces and worth the visit on their own.
MUŻA, Gambrinus and Grand Masters Palace
Valletta is a compact easily walkable city. Our next cultural attraction was MUŻA, the National Museum of Art, which has various themed collections tracing the 8,000 years of art in Malta. Downstairs is a collection of sculptures while upstairs are archaeological artefacts, including a mosaic from a cave church, as well as some interesting maps.
On the way there we stopped at Gambrinus, a delightful small café just around the corner from MUŻA that dates back to 1919, where we had the local delicacy qassata ricotta, which went perfectly with an espresso.
Leaving the museum, we headed for the Upper Barrakka Gardens just in time for the noon salute, when a cannon is fired off in the Saluting Battery below. Just follow the crowds and make sure you arrive on time as there is only one ball fired. However, the views down across the harbour are worth the visit.
Our next stop was at the Grand Masters Palace, which was constructed in the 1560s by the Knights of St John and has a wonderful Prince Alfred Courtyard with a beautiful tree.
Casa Rocco Piccola
Casa Rocco Piccola is a real gem. We were fortunate enough to be given a guided tour of the 16th century palace by Frances, the wife of the current Marquis de Piro, who was giving a separate tour himself.
The couple still live in an apartment in the property, but apparently, we were most fortunate to stumble across one of their personal tours – we inadvertently gate-crashed an upmarket tour group.
The palace has lots of wonderful rooms, including a great library and beautiful art nouveau dining room. Frances brought the whole place to life, providing a personal touch as she talked about her father-in-law and the invitation to the late Queen Elizabeth’s coronation. She has a lovely gentle sense of humour.
My favourite ornament was a traditional Maltese clock which only had one arm, which after all is really all you need. Apparently, although I have not verified this, the second hand was introduced in Victorian times, which seems typical of the period’s ill-timed earnestness.
Fort St Elmo
By now we had fully acclimatised to one-armed Maltese time, and wandered through the city’s beautiful cobbled streets, admiring occasional buildings with the vague aim of catching the ferry to Sliema.
On the way we stopped at Fort St Elmo. The original watch post was built here on the Ceberras Peninsula in 1417, although the current fort was constructed in 1552. It has been turned into a wonderful museum including the national War Museum which traces the history of the island in a series of exhibitions starting with neolithic times and ending up when Malta joined the EU in 2004.
The exhibition on the WWII is particularly interesting. The island was awarded the George Cross on April 15, 1942, due to its enormous sacrifice. There are also great views from the fort across the bay.
Ferry to Sliema
From Fort St Elmo we walked along the seafront to the Valletta ferry terminal, off Boat Street, to Sliema. The ferry costs €2 per person and takes just over five minutes.
We walked up the hill to look at Holy Trinity Church, which was closed. So instead, we headed for the coast where I had a swim beside some rock pools. The view across the bay towards St Johns merited a beer. Although we could have taken a bus, we decided to take a Bolt back to our resort, which only cost €15.
Lazing at the Hotel
The following day we took a day-trip to Gozo, which you can read about here.
On our final full day we spent lazing around the pool at the lavish AX ODYCY booked through Jet2holidays in the morning. The hotel had an infinity pool on the 11th floor which allowed me to dip my legs while looking over the bay.
After this I took a lazy stroll across the road to swim in the sea with the locals. It was beautiful drying off in the sun.
Trip to Mdina
After spending the morning and early afternoon chilling, we caught the X3 bus to the ancient capital of Mdina. This is a picture perfect medieval town full of churches and lovely squares. As the sun set the light was perfect and the tourist buses started to drift home. We had a beer in Mesquita Square where my colleague was appropriately enough bitten by a mosquito.
On our previous day trip to Valletta, we had noted a few places to re-visit at night time. So, we ordered a Bolt, and took the short ride across the island to the capital. My choice was the old man’s snooker club next to the Opera House on Republic Street, where we saw a tense frame played out by a couple of septuagenarians. My colleague preferred to dine out on the 33 Steps on local cheese and beer watching the sun fade into the harbour from a great vista. There is no accounting for taste. After this we hit a couple of bars in the gay part of town before once more Bolting back to our resort.
In the morning the Jet2 bus conveyed us back to the airport in plenty of time for the flight home, which departed promptly unlike the Ryanair flight from the adjoining gate which was still AWOL as we left despite being scheduled to leave 30 minutes prior to us.
Where to Stay in Malta
The AX ODYCY booked through Jet2holidays proved an excellent choice.
Flights to Malta
Jet2 has many flights to Malta making this a very easy and popular destination for UK holidaymakers. Legroom on the Jet2 flight was good. I had the emergency seat on way out but just normal aisle seat on way back. There was plenty of room, and I am 6’3”.
Travelling through Malta
The system of taking a local bus for €2.50 / each on the way out and Bolt (never more than €20) back worked very well.
Things To Do in Malta
For more inspiration on what to do in Malta on your luxury holidays, go to the official Visit Malta tourism website. Alternatively read our 10 Things to Do in Malta.
Mark’s trip to Malta was sponsored by Jet2 Holidays, but, as always, all views are his own. All images by Mark.
