Mark Bibby Jackson takes a short break in Norfolk where he makes friends with some seals in total isolation on Winterton Beach.
When people ask me what’s the favourite place I’ve visited, I instinctively say Galapagos. When further interrogated I say it was due to the unspoilt nature of the islands, man at one with nature. There you can walk alongside the animals and even swim with seals – or at least you could in 1999 when I visited.
Standing on Winterton Beach watching the local colony of grey seals basking in the rain, playing games and generally lying around doing nothing in particular I find myself transported back in time to the Galapagos.
Admittedly I cannot swim with the seals who seem – unlike their Galapagos cousins – to have discovered the danger of man, but this is very much the next best thing. And frankly on a cold and wet October morning, swimming in the North Sea is not high up on my to do list.
Winterton Beach Seals
The seals stretch out along the sand from the village of Winterton-on-Sea towards Horsey Beach. The walk to the beach from my holiday bungalow takes five minutes.
I ask the staff at the Winterton beach car park (£7.50 per day) if the seals have been spotted that day and they direct me north along the beach towards Horsey.
I do not expect much – always a sound strategy I find. It is mid-October and pupping season does not start for around another month, so I am delighted as I pass through the car park along the Norfolk Coast Park through Winterton Dunes and immediately spot some dark spots bobbing up and down on the surface of the water.
As I reach the beach, I get a closer look as the seals pop their heads from the water inquisitively like marine meerkats. They stare straight at me before dipping beneath the surface.
A seal warden passes me as I walk along the beach, saying that there is a colony of seals by the 58 marker, and asks me to keep my distance.
Around 15 minutes later I see them. All huddled together beside a rock marked with a 58. I confess that in my enthusiasm I move a bit too quickly, which leads to some of the seals retreating into the water. So, I withdraw my steps a little and stand perfectly still as the seals return.
Initially, I think that these seals are the whole colony, but keeping as close to the cliffs as I can I see that by the 56 and 57 markers there are far more seals – perhaps 200 in total.
Some of the juvenile seals play on the sand, others are mock fighting, one comes in surfing on the waves, but mainly they are just chilling. I can hear them calling to each other. Perhaps this is the wailing sound sailors thought was made by mermaids.
The great thing is that there are no other people here. Just me and the seals.
I stay for a blissful half an hour without seeing any other human before returning to town, this time through the Winterton Dunes, which is a national Nature Reserve. There are even some natterjack toads in the ponds.
Winterton Cottages and the Fisherman’s Return
This is the first morning on my three-day break with Winterton Cottages. The previous day we had driven down from Essex, and checked into our bungalow Sunny View before heading to the local pub, the Fisherman’s Return, where we sat outside to enjoy the last of the autumnal sun.
I confess I made a rookie error before departure, checking out the accommodation on Google Maps. The place it indicated was a post-war bungalow totally lacking in character, so my expectations were low. Fortunately, Google had selected the wrong bungalow.
Sunny View was set in a beautiful well-attended, secluded garden ideal for dogs, with up to three allowed. It was also fitted with all the appliances you could imagine, and tastefully decorated with nautical prints as well as very comfortable furniture. My bath even had a jacuzzi as I was to discover after my walk.
Winterton-on-Sea is a lovely village, strewn with thatched cottages. The Fisherman’s Return is a 300-year-old pub and apparent centre of all activity in town. I tucked into an excellent pint of Woodford Wherry before ordering the fish pie for myself and dressed crab with potted crayfish for my companion. The fish pie was made fresh while the potted crayfish was excellent. Dessert consisted of some cookies back at our cottage which was part of our welcome gift alongside carrot cake, jam, local apple juice and a bottle of cava.
Sunny View is only 50 metres from The Fisherman’s Return and slightly further to the local fish and chippy, and Poppy’s Tea Room which doubles up as the post office and local store. Both beach and Winterton beach café are just a short, ten-minute stroll away from the cottage.
Dunes Café, Waxham Barn
After my stroll along Winterton Beach, and much needed bath, we take the short drive along the coast to Waxham.
This village has a lovely beach which is relatively unspoilt as well as Dunes Café, a beautiful listed barn which is open during the day (closes at 4pm).
The crab bisque was incredible – both of us agreed it was the best we had ever tasted, and it came with fresh baguettes. Not realising how large the portions were, we ordered some crab sandwiches as well – and some bread pudding. It was far too much so we took both pudding and sandwiches back to our cottage to enjoy as supper.
Cromer, noted for the quality of its crab, is only some 20 miles north of Waxham, so perhaps it is no surprise the sandwiches matched the bisque in quality. However, they were also stacked full of crab – there was no stinging on portion size here. It was a real treat.
Hickling Broad and Marshes Nature Reserve
In addition to its beaches, Norfolk is perhaps best known for the Broads. After lunch we take the short drive to Hickling Broad and Marshes Nature Reserve, which is run by the Norfolk Wildlife Trust.
The staff at the reserve were very helpful, indicating the best walk for me considering my time restraints, and providing me a map which indicated the hides.
Leaving my companion in the comfortable visitor centre, I set off just in time to catch the latest batch of rain that was sweeping in – it had been dry throughout lunch and our drive. So, I take refuge in one of the hides while the rain dissipated.
Once again, I had the place to myself, passing just a couple of bird watchers who seemed far better equipped than me.
I saw nothing apart from some swans and a couple of lapwings crash landing on the water, but that was part of the attraction. The gentle rustling sound of the breeze through the reeds was quite meditative.
You can rent binoculars for £3 (£60 deposit) and the entrance fee is £4.50. The Norfolk Wildlife Trust also runs the nearby Pleasure Boat Inn which is ideal if you want a pint by the Broads.
After that we drive to Walcott which has a good stretch of sand – sans seal – and free parking by the beach. Eventually, we returned to Winterton for a couple of pints in our local before eating our crab sandwiches back in our bungalow.
Winterton Beach Seals Revisited
In the morning, I go for another walk along Winterton-on-sea beach. The seals are in less numbers than the day before, but they seem more playful perhaps like me they prefer the weather when it is not raining. It seems nature and man are in harmony.
A young seal crawls along the sand perhaps in search of its mother. A large male seal crawls awkwardly on its side. The contrast with their grace in the water cannot be more marked. Once more I have the seals to myself.
Caister Roman Fort and Burgh Castle
Norfolk is not just a county noted for its outstanding natural beauty. It also has a rich history. After my stroll along Winterton beach, I set off for a couple of nearby Roman sites.
Caister Roman Fort was built around 200 AD, and occupied until 390 AD. It is believed the fortress was used to garrison soldiers who protected the estuary. The site, which was excavated in the 1950s, is very simple and free to enter, just park your car on the layby on the Norwich Road.
Much larger, and harder to reach is Burgh Castle, which is the best preserved Roman ruin in East Anglia. The Romans built Gariannonum here around 300 AD. In addition to the soldiers and sailors stationed here, there was also a large civilian population just outside the impressive walls.
The remains are a short walk from the car park (£2 per hour) which is outside the village of Burgh Castle. Free to enter, the Roman walls are built on the side of marshland, which means that even if you are not into Roman remains there is great walking around here.
I feel sad to leave Winterton-on-Sea the following morning. Having packed and left the key as requested, we take the extremely short drive to the beach car park. While my companion watches seals from the warmth of the car, I stroll down to the beach to wave them goodbye. I often say that I will be back without necessarily fully believing it, but this time I do. However, next time I will come from mid-November to mid-January so I can see the pups being born. After all I almost feel like one of the family now.
Winterton Cottages
Mark booked his stay through Winterton Cottages which has more than 40 holiday homes in Winterton-on-Sea and the surrounding villages of East Somerton and Martham. Our bungalow, Sunny View sleeps six in three bedrooms and has two bathrooms. A seven-night stay starts from £886 and a three-night weekend break, like ours, is from £551.
Sunny View, The Craft, Winterton-on-Sea, NR29 4AX. Tel: 01493 800645 | [email protected] | wintertoncottages.co.uk.
Mark’s stay at Winterton-on-Sea was sponsored by Winterton Cottages, but, as always, all views are his own. All images by Mark.
