Mark Bibby Jackson travels to Finland’s Lake District to visit Lake Saimaa and the Savonlinna Opera Festival
It is on our return journey that Captain Mikael allows me to take the wheel of the M/S Puijo on our boat trip through Lake Saimaa Finland. There is no need for our fellow passengers to fear as it is set to auto pilot and I am just posing for the camera that Mikael has in his hands.
Finland Lake District: Boat Ride on Lake Saimaa
Mikael has been a ship’s captain for eight years, three of them in charge of the Puijo, although he is a local and knows the waters of Lake Saimaa well. Not that he needs to on such a calm day. He prefers it when the weather is bad as he actually has to do something.
“I find it boring,” he confides in me.
Mikael makes the trip roughly twice a week sharing the load with his two other captains. He does get a respite in winter when the lake freezes up and it can become a skating route.
I am happy to say that Mikael was very bored on our trip. The waters were calm and the sun even fleetingly put in an appearance. Saimaa lake is vast; the largest in Finland. There is something about the way the sky shimmers in the water that I find transfixing. Turner would have loved the light.
It took us an hour to reach the island of Linnansaari where we dock for an hour, sufficient time to walk to Linnavuori viewpoint, an easy half-kilometre hike away, or to swim in the fresh waters. I opt for the former as I have already taken a dip in the lake earlier that morning. You can also spend longer on the island taking the later boat back if you wish.
Lake Saimaa Seal : the Saimaa Ringed Seal
The lake is home to the endangered Saimaa Ringed Seal. The Lake Saimaa seal is one of the few species of freshwater seals you in the world, they are descended from ringed seals that were trapped here at the end of the last Ice Age, some 9,500 years ago.
There are only some 400 to 430 individual seals left, although this is an improvement on the 100 to 150 seals in the mid-80s, much of this increase in population is due to conservation efforts by the Finnish Association for Nature Conservation.
According to Mikael the best time to see the Saimaa Ringed seals is in March to May when the pups are born and the adults bask on the rocks having malted their winter coats. On our journey Mikael did manage to spot a seal in the distance but by the time I realised where he was pointing, the seal had dived for cover beneath the calm waters.
Järvisydän Spa Hotel
The previous evening, after a series of trains from the capital Helsinki, I arrived at my Lake Saimaa resort the Järvisydän Spa Hotel.
The property has been in the Heiskanen family since 1658. This is when the first lodge was built by Markus Heiskanen along the Russian-Swedish trading route, a few kilometres from the current hotel and spa.
I have a salad and first Finnish lager at Lotja bar before retiring to my Birds Nest. The hotel has a series of types of accommodation, but mine is a cosy pod in keeping with the natural setting of the hotel which is in the middle of nowhere. In winter it must be great for stargazing.
I am shown around the complex by its manager VP, who has worked here since a youth. He explains there is more water than land in eastern Finland. This explains the need for lodges by their side, as well as steamers to ply their waters. Järvisydän has a huge spa area with different types of saunas and pools. You can also hire e-bikes, kayaks and canoes to explore the national park or go hiking.
A Night at Savonlinna Opera Festival
Unfortunately, I do not have time to explore the the Linnasaari national park, as after lunch at the hotel’s excellent Restaurant Piikatyttö, I return to Savonlinna for a night at the opera.
The Savonlinna Opera Festival was the rather weird idea of Finnish opera singer Aino Acté, who organised the first concert in Olavinlinna Castle in 1912. A series of operas was held from 1912 to 1914, 1916 and 1930. In 1967 it was resurrected when the modern opera festival was born.
I am fortunate enough to be shown back stage before the performance of Nabucco by Verdi, directed by Rodula Gaitanou, which was debuting at the festival. It is an enchanting and somewhat surreal experience to see various members of the choir and orchestra scattered around the medieval castle practising for the performance, in the most idyllic setting next to the lake. I feel as if I have wandered onto the set of a 1960s Italian film, perhaps by Visconti.
One of the best parts of the pre-show tour was seeing all the little holes the performers had to crawl through to enter the stage. Some involved going outside and climbing long ladders.
Some 35,000 people live in Savonlinna but this number doubles during the festival in July, when the castle’s courtyard is covered by a huge canopy, and temporary seating is fitted for 2,200 people. It makes for a truly spectacular setting.
Nabucco and Climate Change
Verdi’s opera about lust for power and freedom – the Jews are exiled from their homeland by the Babylonians under King Nabucco (Nebuchadnezzar II) – has been given a contemporary twist by Gaitanou.
“Climate change is the most serious war of our time and it is being waged against nature,” he writes. “Our version is an ecological manifesto.” Thus, the temples of Babylon are created from plastic water bottles, and the two warring factions represent climate deniers and climate activists.
In such a context, perhaps it is appropriate that we have to pause on one occasion – apparently the first time this season – due to the heavy rain on the roof, which means we could hardly hear the performers. It is a diluvian performance.
The opera is most well known for Va Pensiero, sung by the Hebrew slaves. However the star performance is undeniably delivered by Marigona Qerkezi in the role of Abigaille, whose voice is powerful enough to conquer the elements.
Savonlinna: Olavinlinna Castle and Riihisaari Museum
Olavinlinna Castle is allegedly the most northerly existing medieval castle in the world. The following morning, I return there for a scheduled tour.
Also known as St Olaf’s Castle, it was constructed for Erik Axelsson Tott in 1475 to protect what was then Sweden from the Russians. It’s setting on a small island in the strait linking Haukivesi and Pihlajavesi lakes is spectacular. In 1743, the castle was handed to the Russians, who expanded it. Further restoration work was carried out in the 1960s and 70s. It is now a major tourist attraction in addition to hosting the opera festival.
One of the many stories linked to the castle concerns a black ram that was going to be slaughtered for a feast. On its eve the Russians attacked. Seeing the shadow of the ram and believing its horns to be those of the devil, the invading army retreated, and both castle and ram were saved.
After my Olavinlinna Castle tour, I visit the adjoining Riihisaari museum, which has an exhibition on the Saimaa as well as the Saimaa Ringed Seal. There is also a display on the steam ships that have sailed on the lakes, allowing you to steer a steamer should you wish, just like I had the previous day. Downstairs is an excellent exhibition of Czech photography.
As I leave Savonlinna, people are congregating around the lake. Some are swimming, others are taking a stroll along its edge. The sun is out, and this is a most pleasant setting. Captain Mikael would not be happy.
Lake Saimaa Boat Trip
Cruise with M/S Puijo on Lake Saimaa: https://www.jarvisydan.com/en/trips-to-the-national-park/
Savonlinna Opera Festival
For more information go to Savonlinna Opera Festival 2024, Finland – Travel Begins at 40.
Where to Stay in Savonlinna Finland
Mark stayed at the Hotel Trott Savonlinna, which was very comfortable and well located close to the lake and walkable to the castle.
Flights to Finland
Mark flew to Helsinki from Gatwick Airport, staying overnight at the Hilton, Gatwick Airport, which he arranged with Holiday Extras, the market leader in UK airport parking, hotels, lounges and transfers. Last year its customers saved an average of £191 per trip by booking their airport parking in advance. Booking an airport hotel with parking means you can enjoy more holiday with less hassle. Plus with Flextras, if you need to cancel or amend you can without charge. One night’s accommodation at the Hilton, Gatwick Airport is available for £150.15 based on arrival on 18 September 2024. For more information and to book, HolidayExtras.com or call 0800 316 5678.
His return flight was to London Heathrow, taking the Heathrow Express into London Paddington station, which was seamless and swift.
