During his stay travelling through Malta, Mark Bibby Jackson takes the short ferry ride for a day trip to Gozo to discover an island full of history.
Day-trip to Gozo: Ġgantija, Gozo’s Stonehenge
It is not every day you visit a site that makes Stonehenge seem almost contemporary. Set on some hills outside the beautiful village of Xagħra in Gozo, The Ġgantija Archaeological Park is the oldest freestanding structure in the world, according to UNESCO. The north temple has been dated back to 3,600 BC, while the adjoining south structure is 600 years more recent.
In comparison the stone circle at Stonehenge, is believed to have been assembled somewhere between 2600 BC and 2400 BC, although the ditch and bank surrounding it are a few hundred years older. The Pyramids of Giza are roughly contemporary to Stonehenge.
Ġgantija translates as Place of Giants due to the belief the structure was built by a race of giants. Local folklore is that the rocks were brought here by the giantess Sansuna, who ate nothing but fava beans and honey, and carried a child from her shoulder throughout the construction, presumably while the male giants smoked cigarettes and drank wine. Sometimes the twin temples are called the Mother and Daughter Temple.
Excavated in 1827, the ruins were neglected for a time until made a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1980, and eventually restored at the start of this century. The impressive visitors’ centre was opened in 2013.
It is easy to walk around both temples. Made from coraline limestone, the temples used to be three times higher, and animal sacrifices were made here to do with fertility, according to our guide Audrey. From the air the temples assume a female form – perhaps a reflection of Sansuna herself. There are also some underground tunnels although these are only open by appointment. Unsurprisingly, there is a festival here during the summer solstice.
L-Għar tal-Mixta (Mixta Cave)
Ġgantija is the first stop on our day-trip to Gozo from Malta, which started with a 25-minute drive from our resort in St Paul’s Bay to the ferry station at Cirkewwa, where we took the 20-minute ferry ride (€4.65 return) to Mgarr in Gozo, passing the even smaller island of Comino on our way. The crossing takes around 20 minutes.
Quite frankly there is only one way to travel around Gozo – by pink tuk tuk. Having spent a decade in Asia – and driven a tuk tuk for eleven days in northern Thailand – I can safely say that tuk tuks are my favourite form of travel.
Our driver Mike, of Yippee, had the strongest Australian accent, which he had picked up from his late wife who hailed from Sydney, as he was a native of Gozo.
Our next stop was the tal-Mixta cave, which has beautiful views down towards Ramla Bay – one of the more popular beaches on the island. Sadly, the cave has become tik-toked. The excellent Audrey informed us that up to five years ago the cave was relatively undiscovered apart from courting couples. Now the power of vanity-driven social media has made this a popular selfie spot. The cave is totally inaccessible and with sheer drops is not a place for drunken revelry at 2 am.
Rabat (Victoria) and the Citadel
Our next stop is the capital Rabat, alternatively called Victoria, where we sadly bid ‘seeya’ to Mike and his Barbie tuk-tuk.
The Knights Hospitalier (Knights of St John) settled here in 1532 after they were driven out of Rhodes by the Ottomans, although the Cittadella dates back to around 1500 BC. This represents the history of the islands of Malta in a snapshot. The winding streets were formed in Arab times when the larger Roman city was reduced in size to make it easier to repel invaders. In its centre are a number of churches including its own cathedral dedicated to the Virgin Mary, which was built between 1697-1711 in the Baroque style – well this is Malta.
Outside it is a stone circle from Neolithic times, although it is now covered by a mat. The whole of the Cittadella was restored by the Ministry for Gozo between 2014 and 2016, and looks pristine. Walk around the ramparts to see the surrounding countryside.
Salt Pans and Fungus Rock
With hunger now driving us on we head to the coastal town of Marsalform for lunch at Il-Kartel, a delightful restaurant overlooking the harbour and its aquamarine sea. I had a local rock fish which went very well with the local chardonnay, called Isis, after the Egyptian goddess I hasten to add.
Our journey around Gozo continued to the Xwejni salt pans where we meet Josephine whose family have been harvesting salt here for five generations. I pick up a pack to take back home and have been using it ever since – it is wonderful.
The final stop on our whirlwind day-trip to Gozo was to Fungus Rock which is a popular dive spot. Sadly, the Azure Window created naturally in the rocks collapsed in a storm in 2017. Audrey explained that it was an icon of the island and how when she heard of its destruction, she had to come here to pay homage with her mother.
Sunset at Riviera Bay
Our trip to Gozo was all too swift. I could easily have stayed a couple of nights to explore the island further and stay in one of the small towns. However, we have one further treat awaiting us as we take the ferry back to the island of Malta.
We arrange for our driver Mohammad to drop us off at Riviera Beach, a short drive from Cirkewwa ferry terminal. I have enough time to take a quick dip after a hot day, before we retire to Singhita restaurant on the beach for a few local craft beers while watching the most glorious sunset. As the sun dips beneath the horizon a gong sounds to announce the perfect conclusion to a wonderful day.
Flights to Malta
Malta is just a short flight from London Stansted Airport with Jet2 Holidays. You can reach Gozo by ferry.
Day-trip to Gozo
For more inspiration on what to do in Malta, go to the official Visit Malta tourism website.
Mark’s trip to Malta was sponsored by Jet2 Holidays, but, as always, all views are his own. All photos by Mark.
