Mark Bibby Jackson visits some of the industrial heritage in Newcastle given new life.
One of my particular likes when travelling is to see how industrial buildings can be transformed into creative or commercial centres. To breathe fresh air into something not traditionally associated with fresh air.
The Baltic Centre is a great example of this. I could see the centre from my bedroom window in the wonderful Staybridge Suites, the previous evening – it is hard to miss – but I was not quite expecting such a wonderful cultural experience.
The Baltic Centre
The building used to be an old mill before it was turned into the Baltic Centre in 2002. It has different exhibitions on its various floors, all of which are free. During our visit The Waiting Gardens of the North was on display. This wonderful exhibition consisted of a series of plants and herbs constructed as a representation of a relief panel from the North Palace of Ashurbanipal (668-631 BC), which predated the Hanging Gardens of Babylon.
Michael Rakovic and his team of gardeners have nurtured the plants, which represent the various migrant communities in Newcastle and Gateshead, so that it is constantly evolving. Cards are placed around the flower beds with various quotes, such as ‘My voyage from a dark place to a better place,’ Ali from Iran. The waiting in the title refers to nature of asylum seekers, where people are suspended between a known past and uncertain future. It is one of the most creative, original and inspiring exhibitions I have seen for a long time, although unfortunately it closed at the end of May 2025.
The Baltic Open Submission, which is much like the Summer Exhibition at the RA in London, only smaller and open only to artists from the Northeast of England does run until 1 September. I particularly liked Family Beach Outing by David Baillie, with its industrial imagery overshadowing a traditional family day trip to the beach.
Lunch at the Baltic Centre
The Baltic Centre also has the excellent Six Rooftop restaurant situated on the sixth floor, which has incredible views over the Tyne and back towards my hotel room, as well as food to match, set in a very contemporary setting.
We shared a seafood plate (£24) which was a generous sharing dish consisting of crab cake, squid, taramasalata, cured trout prawn cocktail and potted shrimp. The trout which is cured in the kitchen was brilliant, as were the crab cakes and the beer which accompanied it. Apparently, Six is in the 2024 Michelin Guide and has been awarded two rosettes. It was a great experience and incredible value for money.
Staybridge Suites
The previous day after a beautiful drive from Cumbria across the northern Pennines we checked into the Staybridge Suites. This is a convenient accommodation option in the heart of Newcastle, with secure parking and devastating views to the Millennium Bridge and Baltic Centre.
My room was extremely well appointed with possibly the best working space I’ve had in a hotel room. The kitchen area is ideal if you are on an extended business trip, and there is a notice board with a list of events going on nearby.
Arriving on a Wednesday afternoon we were informed by the excellent staff the hotel was having a reception for guests from 6:30pm to 7:30pm that evening in the downstairs area, where breakfast is also served. After a quick refresh we joined our fellow guests for wine, cheese, olives, various meats and snacks. It was a lovely touch from what is a well-run hotel.
After our social, we walked down the steps to the Quayside area of town and had a meal at the Pitcher and Piano while watching all the joggers going for a run, or strollers enjoying the wonderful weather.
It is here we return to the following day after our visit to the Baltic Centre crossing the Millennium Bridge. This conveniently has seats on it to allow you to soak up the classic view of Newcastle with its many bridges.
The Common Room
In the evening, we went to a screening of Tish, a documentary on the life of photographer Tish Murtha directed by her daughter Ella at The Common Room.
This is located in the home of the Mining Institute formed after the New Hartley Pit disaster of 1862 which resulted in the death of 204 miners – men and boys. A charity, the Common Room is an archive and heritage venue. The building was restored thanks to a National Lottery grant and has a mission to provide a unique space for the common good.
The Nicholas Wood Halls, named after a mining engineer who was a contemporary of George Stephenson, is a wonderful room that would not look out of place in an Oxford college. It is used as a library containing some of the Institute extensive range of maps and plans.
The Common Room also holds events such as the documentary screening in the 1902 Lecture Theatre. This made for a wonderful and atmospheric setting for the documentary on the photographer who grew up in a Newcastle mining family and took photographs of working class men, women and children, including her family playing in the rubble. It is a highly personal, yet accessible documentary and a fascinating portrait of the most talented of photographers.
Victoria Tunnel Tour
Mining is a major part of the history of Newcastle. In the early 19th century coal used to be transported across the city by horse and cart. However, as people complained about the smell and mess, William Gillespie, an engineer, came up with the idea of digging a tunnel through the granite clay from the pits across the city towards the River Tyne.
The tunnel was built in just under three years opening in 1842. In total it reached around 2.5 miles, with the coal being conveyed by truck using gravity. It was only in operation for 18 years but found a second life during the Second World War when used as an air raid shelter.
Now, the Victorian tunnels have become one of the most popular attractions in Newcastle. As someone who suffers a little from vertigo and who is 6’3’’ tall – the same height of the tunnels, I must admit that I embarked upon the tour with a certain degree of reticence. However, our guide Pete Harrison, who has run more than 2,000 tours down the tunnel laced the trip with so much Geordie humour that I found the experience most enjoyable.
Harrison starts by telling of the tunnel’s war time service, before going back to its construction. At the start of the Second World War the tunnels were heavily used as Newcastle was a prime target for the Luftwaffe, and conditions must have been terrible. By the end of our tour which lasted just over an hour, I was quite thankful to return to the surface, so I can only imagine what it must have been like to spend a night down there.
The tour starts from close to the Staybridge Suites, so I was able to walk back in time for our noon check-out. This was my second visit to Newcastle in the last year. It is a wonderful city with the friendliest people – all the staff at the Staybridge Suites were amazing, especially during an unexpected fire alarm.
Baltic Centre for Contemporary Art
The Baltic Centre is open from 10am to 6pm (Wednesday to Sunday). Details of what is showing can be found here. Six Rooftop Restaurant is open from 12pm to 11pm (Wednesday to Saturday), on Sundays it closes at 5pm and reopens on Tuesday at 5:30 pm.
Victorian Tunnel Tours
Mark went on the 1 ¼ hour tour which costs between £6 (children over 7) and £13 (adults). Tickets can be bought here.
Things to Do in Newcastle
For more inspiration on the things to do in Newcastle, go to the official Newcastle Gateshead tourism website.
